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741 



Proper ventilation of the cellar oi' reposi- 

 tory is generally obtained by either surface 

 or sub-earth outlet. I would advise the use 

 of at least two layers of sacking. — VVn.i. M. 

 Baknum. 



I use no caps on the hives in the cellar. 

 Two or three thicknesses of old carpet, or a 

 bee-quilt, is as good as anything over the 

 frames. I do not use a honey-board while 

 the bees are in the cellar. — G. M. Doolittle. 



Your cellar is probably too cold. In my 

 judgment, it is the cold that causes the con- 

 densation — the inside of the hive being 

 wanner than the outside. If the outside 

 temperature is 45 to 50 degrees (45 de- 

 gi'ees preferred, as the bees are more quiet), 

 and never colder, I hardly think that they 

 will need more ventilation than thej' have 

 in summer.— ErciUNE Secok, 



No system of ventilation in cellars will 

 prevent damjniess in hives, if the cellar is 

 too cold. The temperature should never go 

 below 41 degrees in a dry cellar, and it 

 should range much higher than that in a 

 damp cellar. A light, porous packing over 

 the frames is the best covering. Leave the 

 eutrauees as in summer time, and take off 

 the caps. — G. L. Tixkek. 



Leave the entrances open the full width. 

 One or two thicknesses of sacking or carpet 

 will do nicely, but it would be better to 

 leave the " cap " off entirely. A wooden 

 cover wtth a bee-space between it and the 

 brood-frames is as good as anything, and 

 better than any kind of packing, when win- 

 tering bees in "the cellar. — C. H. Dibbehn. 



There are many ways of ventilating; any 

 plan that will allow access of air at the 

 bottom, and allow it to pass out at the top 

 of the hive, will give ventilation; the 

 amount can bo .iudgedto suit circura.stauces 

 or fancy. With a perforated honey -board, 

 the plan that you mention is as good as 

 any.— J. E. Pond. 



In my opinion, your cellar needs more 

 ventilation, and not your bees. Before we 

 put in a sub-earth ventilator, honey stored 

 there would get wet, although the cellar is 

 one of the driest. I would not put on the 

 caps, but cover the sacking with a piece of 

 carpet, a "comfort," or something of that 

 kind; put sticks across at each end, and 

 place on another hive above. — Mrs. L. Hak- 

 HI30N. 



"Iowa' conveys the idea that upward 

 ventilation of his colonies is a necessity in 

 his cellar; I have succeeded just as well in 

 wintering without, as with, ujiward ventila- 

 tion. I never winter my bees out-doors — 

 1 cannot afford it. I use quilts instead of 

 honey -boards, and leave them on the hives 

 when put into winter quarters, just as the 

 bees fixed them in the fall, but the bottom- 

 boards are removed from the hives. If the 

 ••sacking" is such as will retain the heat 

 made by the bees, it will be all right. I 

 would leave off the "cap" or cover. — A. 

 B. Mason. 



When engaged with my experiments 

 with bees in the cellar, winter before last, 

 1 found that a colony of bees could be 

 drenched with condensed water in a week's 

 time, by simjily putting enameled cloth 

 over the frames, thus checking all upward 

 ventilation. With a burlap covering they 

 '.vere kept practically dry, the moisture es- 

 caping through the porous cloth. After all 

 my experiments that winter, I concluded 

 that no material tended so much to keep 

 the bees drj', as a clean cloth, over the tops 

 of the frames. — (i. W. Demahee. 



Dampness is generally of no particular 

 detriment to bees wintered in cellars. You 

 can ventilate the cellar, but it will not en- 

 tirely prevent dampness, if it is naturally 

 damp; but as yours is a "di-y cellar," 

 simply take off the caps and leave the en- 

 trances open as usual. The sacking will do 

 very well as suggested. — The EnrroK. 



IIOAv uiul When to ITIove an 

 Apiury a iNliort Dislancc. 



WrUUn Jor Vie American Bee Journal 



Query 670.-1. I shall be compelled to 

 move my bees tliis winter about .'jO teet from 

 the present locatif)n. How can I best do it ? 

 •;. At what t.inie would be best? I practice 

 out-door wintering.— Ohio. 



I would move them at any time now. 

 Place some obstruction before the entrances, 

 and they will adjust themselves to the new 

 location. — H. D. Cutting. 



Toward spring, or just as late as possible, 

 before they have a general flight. Move 

 them so quietly that they will not know 

 they were touched. — James Heddon. 



I would do it on some evening. Place 

 some boards or obstructions in front of the 

 entrance, and it will all be well — no loss to 

 amount to anything.— J. P. H. Brown. 



The coiTect time for moving bees is dur- 

 ing the middle of winter. The best way for 

 so short a distance would be to move them 

 by wheelbarrow.— Will M. Barnum. 



I would move them after a two or three 

 months' confinement, if possible, and ar- 

 range them as nearly as possible as they 

 previously stood on the old stands. — J. M. 

 Hambaugh. 



Move them when it is too cool for flight. 

 Put the hives in the new location, in the 

 same order as in the old one, and lean a 

 wide board over the entrance to each hive. 

 — J. M. SnucK. 



I would move them while the weather is 

 warm. I moved bees once during cool 

 weather, and after their first flight, I could 

 scoop up the frozen bees. Had they had an 

 all-day flight, they would have found their 

 way back. — Mrs. L. Hakrison. 



Any time. Face the hives about, and 

 place a board over the^ front. Nearly all 

 will go to the new home all right. Keep 

 watch the first day they fly, and if some do 

 go back to the old place, put a box on the 

 stand, and return them at night. We moved 

 all of ours twice last year, with no loss. — A. 

 J. Cook. 



Within the last week I moved some colo- 

 nies about 10 feet, and turned the hives 

 completely around. To-day the bees have 

 been flying all day, and I could not see that 

 any got lost.— Ei'(;ene Secor. 



Move them at any time during the win- 

 ter, after the bees h,ave been confined to the 

 hive for three or more weeks. Bees always 

 mark their location anew on their first 

 flight in the spring. — G. M. Doolittle. 



They may Vie moved at any time late in 

 the winter, before spring flights occur, with 

 little loss. Two men should be able to carry 

 them the 50 feet, without much disturb- 

 ance to the colonies. — G. L. Tinker. 



1. In your hands, as at that time of the 

 year it is well not to excite the bees. 3. 

 At the beginning of the longest term of un- 

 broken cold weathoi' of the winter, so that 

 the bees will lie more likely to re-locate 

 their hives when they at length come out 

 for a flight.— R. L. Taylor. 



It is a vei-y unpleasant job at any time, 

 unless you can move them a foot at a time. 

 We would prefer to do it in the spring, 

 although it may do now. Put a slanting 

 board in front of every entrance, when 

 you move them, to show them that there is 

 a change of location. — Dadant & Sox. 



The moving should have been done dur- 

 ing warm weathei-. As the matter now 

 stands, I should move them all at once after 

 the bees had done flying for the day, and 

 place a board against the entrance of each 

 hive — not, however, so as to close the en- 

 trance, but to cover it. Make the old stand 

 as unrecognizable as possible. — J. E. Pond. 



I should remove them after they had 

 been confined a long time in their hives, 

 and just before a flight in early spring. 

 Place a wide board in front of each hive, to 

 cause the bees to mark their new locations. 



— C. H. DlIiKERN. 



Move them in the evening, after it begins 

 to get dark. If practicable, let the hives 

 front towards the old location. Place them 

 as nearly as possible in the order in which 

 they were before; and remove everything 

 from the old location, as far as practicable, 

 with which the bees were familiar. There 

 will be no trouble. I have tried it. — M. 

 Maiiin. 



1. I do not know, but probably by get- 

 ting some one to help you carry them. 2. 

 I do not know, but I think that a good 

 time would be, as soon as settled cold 

 weather comes. Have the places fixed to 

 put the hives, and move carefully, with- 

 out disturbing the bees; and if placed in 

 the same relative positions in the new loca- 

 tion, as they now occupy, there would prob- 

 ably be no trouble, especially if a short 

 board be leaned up against the front of 

 each hive, till the bees have re-marked their 

 location. — A. B. Mason. 



In the past ten years I have twice moved 

 my entire apiary about 100 feet, and with 

 entire safety to the bees. I selected a day 

 in the winter that was just cold enough to 

 keep the bees quietly in the hives; having 

 first staked off the new site, the hives were 

 borne between two men, and placed on their 

 new stands, as nearly as possible as related 

 to each other, as they were on the old site, 

 which was tleaned up, and changed in ap- 

 pearance as much as possible. As a further 

 precaution, a couple of shingles were 

 leaned up in front of each hive. There was 

 some confusion apparent on the first warm 

 day that followed, but all was soon quieted 

 after a few flights.— G. W. Demaree. 



Move them very gently towards spring, 

 and place a board or some obstruction over 

 the entrances, so that the bees will mark 

 their hives anew when they come out for a 

 general flight.— The Editor. 



!X»»XIX»I»TX»»ZZTXX«»»XX Xgr»XZXXZ3 



Itotanical. 



I enclose a specimen of honey -plant of 

 the mint family. It has a jointed root. 

 Please name it for me. Is it very noxious 

 on a farm; CnA.s. B. Fkitts. 



[It is wood-sage (Teuerlum Canadense) — 

 one of the mint family, all of which pro- 

 duce honey of excellent quality. It flour- 

 ishes on low, wet ground. It is sometimes 

 called "American Germander," and is very 

 commim in the wet lands of the Northern 

 States. It is not a noxious weed. — Ed.] 



Talble Talk for November is on 

 hand to cheer our body — and our mind, too, 

 for that matter— with its pleasing presence. 

 It is filled with its usual amount of read- 

 al)le matter, and well sustains the reputa- 

 tion and pojiularity the magazine has 

 earned. It is published by the Table Talk 

 Publishing Company, 406 Race Street, 

 Philadelphia. Price, ?1. 00 a year; single 

 copies, 10 cents. 



■ — m ■ m 



1^° Whoever before heard of a set of the 

 Waverley Novels being sold for less than 

 $1S.00; Just think of our offer of either 

 these or the Works of Dickens, with the 

 Bee Journal until Dec. HI, 1890— all for 

 $3.10! See the last page of this paper. 



