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down the body with the waxed silk, close and firm, not 

 one wrap on another ; try the gut with a steady strain, 

 to see that it is tied in firm. No fly should be made 

 without this precaution. Set in three strands of hen 

 pheasant tail feather for tails ; well wax a length of red 

 silk and set it in at the shoulder. Take a clean bright 

 straw, (which may be obtained at any fancy shop,) split it 

 down the centre, cut off about three-quarters of an inch, 

 more or less, according to the length of the hook ; taper 

 it at each end with the fly dressing scissors, and fit it to 

 the body of the fly. A little practice will soon teach the 

 tyer how to cut the straws and fit them nicely to the body. 

 If the straw is damped a little, it will bend better and 

 without splitting. Place the straw underneath the hook, 

 bringing the two edges close together on the top of the 

 body ; put two or three wraps of the red silk at the 

 shoulder on the straw, pressing it well together to form 

 the body, and close the straw together. Rib the red silk 

 down on the straw, not too close, about four ribs down 

 to the tails. The wings for this fly should either be 

 Egyptian goose, wood, or summer duck ; set the wings 

 on perfectly upright, not letting them twist round. Turn 

 the quill ends back and tie them down to prevent their 

 drawing out. Take three turns of peacock herl at the 

 head to form the wheel ; pass the silk behind the wings ; 

 take a freckled bittern hackle, and tie it in close up behind 

 the wings \ take three or four turns to form the legs, and 

 fasten off with one wrap and two hitches. This wears 

 much better than finishing off at the head. For a change 

 use any hackle you may fancy. The one I prefer is 



