138 VITIS LABRUSCA. 
rows, and the height to which the vines should be trained, they may run in 
a manner that will allow them to face any point of the horizon between south 
and east; and they may be supported on props, or trellises, from six to ten feet in 
height, and even more, according to the vigour of the vines. But in cities, and 
about houses in the country, single vines may be trained on the sides and ends 
of buildings, along the sides of fences, or on the trunks and branches of trees. 
The most favourable season for planting the Isabella grape-vine in the United 
States, is when the red-flowered maple is in bloom, which usually occurs in 
Georgia from the 20th to the last of February, and five or six weeks later near 
Philadelphia and New York. In selecting the cuttings for a vineyard, they 
should be of one variety, and taken from the most fruitful part of the vine. Let 
us not content ourselves with single clusters, but those which are the most pro- 
lific. The greatest proportion of fruit grows from the buds on the last year's 
shoots next to the old wood, with the exception of the nearest eye, the top buds 
being unfruitful and seldom bearing at all. Some prefer to plant cuttings con- 
taining a considerable portion of the old wood ; but, as it is not always prudent 
nor economical to mutilate a favourite vine too much, it is best to select fruitful 
cuttings of the last year's growth, with the wood well ripened. They should be 
of a moderate size, short-jointed, and containing from six to eight eyes or buds 
in each. They should be cut off, transversely from the vine, with a sharp knife, 
close to the old wood, and not less than two inches of blank wood should be left 
for the protection of the terminal buds. The ends of the cuttings that are to 
remain above the ground should be cut in an oblique direction, and the sloping 
side should be opposite the side containing the uppermost bud. If possible, they 
should be planted in calm weather, immediately after separation from the parent 
vine, and be obtained from a soil, situation, and climate, similar to those in 
which they are intended to grow ; but if any difference in these respects should 
unavoidably occur, it will be better to transplant from a poorer to a richer, and 
from a dryer to moister soil, as also from a colder to a warmer climate. But 
should it be necessary to convey the cuttings from a distance, their lower ends 
should be immersed in a composition of fine earth, well mixed with linseed or 
other oil, of about the consistence of tar, as soon as they are cut off from the 
parent stock, at the same time, taking the precaution not to cut off the top ends 
till the moment they are to be used. 
MANAGEMENT DURING THE FIRST YEAR. 
The ground having been prepared in the manner above described, the cuttings 
are next to be planted in the centres of the trenches, so that each terminal bud 
will be even with the surface, and directed towards the south. Then the earth 
must be firmly pressed round each plant, and should it subsequently settle and 
leave more than one bud above the ground, more earth or mould must be added 
to bury them up. 
As soon as the season becomes hot and dry, it will be necessary to protect 
the cuttings from the mid-day sun, by means of matting or other materials, 
which should be removed towards evening, and allow them to remain uncov- 
ered until the next morning, at about the time of the disappearance of the 
dew. Strict attention must now be observed in keeping the soil around the cut- 
tings continually moist, and should not this be effected by natural means, it 
must be done by sprinkling rain or river water over them, or what is still better, 
soap-suds, or other stimulating fluids, specially prepared for the purpose, but not 
too strong. Soon after the cuttings begin to take root, which may be known by 
the swelling of the buds, above the surface, young shoots will gradually pro- 
trude, and the plants will require but little attention during the remainder of the 
