314 PYRUS MALUS. 
In pruning apple-trees, it is alike important to regard the general form of 
their heads, as it is the management of their individual branches. A system 
which has long been practised in Europe, and has been adopted for many years 
in the United States, is to lead out of the upright stem, at a given height, a series 
of horizontal branches, each series comprising four limbs, situated at proper inter- 
vals, till the tree can bear no more of them. The advantages resulting from this 
mode are, that the boughs can be made capable of producing fruit at an earlier 
age; the strength of such branches, at the place of their insertion into the stem, 
is much greater than of those which grow at more acute angles ; and that the 
flat or semi-spherical heads of such trees seem designed not only to lessen the 
hold of the wind, but to diminish the influence of the shade on the crops around 
them, as well as to admit light, heat, and ventilation within them. It has been 
recommended that the head of the tree be somewhat hemisphe- 
rical, with a hollow space left in the line of its central parts; 
for these parts are more secluded from the light and air, than 
the rest of the tree, and consequently are not adapted to the pro- 
duction of fruit. In forming the head of a tree in the Atlantic 
parts of the United States, it has also been recommended to diminish the weight 
and quantity of boughs on its east or north-east side, (the side opposite to the 
prevailing winds,) as trees generally incline that way; and to encourage the 
branches on the opposite side to screen the sun from the trunk, in order to pre- 
vent its powerful rays in summer from killing the bark, and causing canker and 
ruin to the tree. Mr. Knight recommends most attention to be paid to the lateral 
branches, which, if unchecked by occasional pruning, are apt to load the tree too 
much at the extremities. Mr. Joseph Cooper, of New Jersey, entertained a simi- 
lar opinion. "Young fruit-trees," said he, " should not have the side-shoots cut 
close to the stem, which forces the growth the whole way up the top; which 
becomes so weighty, as to bend and spoil the trees. I have found it better to cut 
the ends of the side-shoots ***** which will encourage the growth of the 
stem or trunk, till it acquires strength to support a good top." After the head of 
the tree is properly formed, nothing more is necessary than to cut out all the 
branches that cross each other, or are likely to be in the way within three years. 
As the trees produce their fruit upon cursions,or spurs, care must be observed not 
to cut off or destroy them, as they continue to be fruitful for several seasons. It 
has also been recommended to " prune at a fork," or at least, " at a bud ;" on the 
ground that a wound is best protected when covered by bark from without ; and 
as the bark never spreads over the end of a long stump, but only over the place 
from which it has been taken, the new cover must be supplied by the extension 
of the bark of another branch, and such a branch, even a bud may become in 
time. Till this extension of bark be effected, however, an artificial covering 
should be substituted, by shaving the wounded surface close and smooth, and 
applying immediately a plaster composed of 
Parts. 
White Burgundy pitch, 16 
Black pitch, 4 
Resin, 4 
Bees-wax, 4 
Tallow, 8 
Pounded mastic, 1 
Salt-petre, 1 
This mixture should be warmed over a slow fire for three fourths of an hour ; 
and when melted, but not too hot, be put on with a brush to a depth of one 
sixteenth to one half of an inch in thickness, according to the size of the wound. 
