90 KAMSCHATKA. [chap. 



Avatcha Eiver, and forty versts from Petropaulovsky. We passed 

 through the same monotonous forests of birch as before, which, like 

 those of other northern countries, seemed smgularly devoid of 

 animal life. An occasional coal tit, which from its note and habits 

 appeared identical with the tame little freebooter of our own 

 gardens, or the tapping of a woodpecker,^ alone broke the almost 

 deatli-like stillness which reigned around. We had struck a well- 

 marked trail, and progressed in Indian file, the packhorses (tied in 

 fours, each to the tail of the one in front) leading the way, and 

 relieving the monotony by an occasional breakdown or a stampede. 

 Almost all these ponies are strong and well shaped, but from 

 the ill-treatment they receive at the hands of their masters, have 

 learned to bite, kick, and shy on all occasions, together with other 

 accomplishments of like nature which were somewhat apt to dis- 

 turb our equilibrium. There was but one saddle among us, and 

 the "Kamschatkan Peats," as we named the combination of pillow 

 and pack-saddle which we used as a substitute, though comfortable 

 enough when we ambled along quietly, were apt to become slightly 

 insecure when, as a naval member of our party expressed it, we 

 " made bad weather." 



The path between Stari-ostrog and Petropaulovsky appears to 

 be tolerably well-travelled, to judge from the frequency with 

 which we came across the marks of old camping-grounds, but we 

 met with no one on our way. It was afternoon when we reached 

 the river, and crossing a small affluent, found ourselves opposite 

 the village. We had ridden on ahead, and were hailing the natives 

 for canoes in which to cross, when a tremendous clattering in our 

 rear caused us to turn, and we beheld the cook's horse advancing 

 in full stampede, but minus his rider. Beneath his belly a large 

 canteen swung violently from side to side, half-open, and discharging 

 a shower of tin cups, knives, forks, plates, tea and coffee kettles, 

 and other articles of like nature in all directions. AVe retraced 

 our steps sadly, picking up such articles as we could find, but 

 1 Picus tridactylus, considered as a distinct species (P. cdbidior) by Dr. Stejneger. 



