CHAPTER VIII. 



KAMSCHATKA {continued). 



Morning on the river — We begin the chart — Meet the first and only traveller — Bear- 

 paths — Land and river birds — The Kamschatkan Marsh Tit — Kojerevsky village 

 — The Kanuli, or Spirits of the Volcanoes — Increased coldness of the weather — 

 Uskovska — Fox-trap — Misfortune to our photographic plates — Sunset on the 

 mountains — The great volcanoes of the Lower Kamschatka — Kluchefskaya and 

 its eruptions — Sevelitch — Eruptions synchronous with Krakatau — A professional 

 brother — Cultivation at Kluchi — Loss of Verglaski — Kamakoffskaya — The 

 Tchoaki — Walrus-schooner Nemo — Thalassaetus pelagicus — We arrive at list 

 Kamschatka — A Kamschatkan dance — We rejoin the Marchesa. 



Our journey of the previous day had made a very perceptible 

 difference in the appearance of the great volcanic ranges we were 

 approaching. When we pitched camp it had been too dark and 

 cloudy even to catch sight of them, and the uncertainty of the 

 weather rendered it more than probable that we should never 

 have another opportunity of seeing the peaks in the cloudless 

 magnificence in which we had been fortunate enough to sight them 

 for the first time. Before starting on our journey Dr. Dybowski 

 had cautioned us against being too sanguine in this respect, warning 

 us to take photographs whenever the slightest chance presented 

 itself, and adding that he had been a fortnight at the base of Kluchi 

 without ever catching a glimpse of it. We were destined, however, 

 to be far more fortunate. The camp was astir long before dawn, 

 and as the first blush of light appeared in the east, we looked up, 

 and lo ! almost over our heads, as it seemed, there stood the mighty 

 peaks of Kluchi and Kojerevska, ink-black against the morning 



