204 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. 



the exciting pleasures of the ff Foire de St. Martin." 

 Then it will greatly add to his comfort should he be 

 the guest of an old friend say in the Haute ville for 

 choice ; in whose well-ordered establishment there is 

 profuse hospitality a tres bonne cuisine, wines of the 

 country at discretion (" the claret smooth, red as the 

 lip we press in sparkling fancy, while we drain the 

 bowl ; the mellow-tasted Burgundy ; and, swift as 

 the wit it gives, the gay champagne/' to quote 

 Thomson), and all the accessories which are found in 

 the elegant home of an accomplished and lettered 

 hostess, whose recollections of men and manners 

 extend over a long period in the far-off days when 

 George the Fourth was king; and he will have a 

 fair chance of enjoying an exceedingly good time of 

 it. Such were the conditions, at any rate, under 

 which I passed a week of indolent enjoyment, amidst 

 delightful society, loitering on the pier, watching the 

 crews of the fishing-boats beating to windward in the 

 teeth of a rattling north-easter, and breasting the 

 waves that came rolling into the mouth of the harbour, 

 whilst the sea-gull 



Claps the sleek white pinion to the breast, 

 And in the restless ocean dips for rest ; 



or roaming leisurely along the streets, observing the 

 display of wares in the numerous attractive and 

 enticing shops ; visiting the markets, especially the 

 Halle au Poisson, in order to gaze upon the hand- 

 some matelotes , whose graceful figures are prominent 

 amongst the inhabitants of the town ; then, if tired of 

 active exertion, lounging on a sofa surrounded with 

 works of prose, poetry, and fiction, taking up by 



