DAIRY. 137 



time after being made. Such is the cream cheese, 

 and the cheeses of Viry, Mont Didier, and Mont 

 d'Or. 



2d. Those which have been deprived of their se- 

 rosity by means only of compression. Such are 

 the cheeses of Holland, of Cantal in France, &c. 

 And, 



3d. Those to which have been applied, not only 

 the action of the press, but of fire. Such are the 

 cheeses known by the name of Gruyere, Parmesan, 

 and Cheshire.* 



Of these different species it is our intention to 

 speak only of the second and third, because these 

 form the cheeses of commerce, and have most con- 

 nexion with the public interest. 



Turning the milk, which is the first step in the 

 process, may be effected by many different sub- 

 stances, such as vegetable acids and astringents ; 

 but the matter generally, if not universally employ- 

 ed, is either the second stomach of the calf or its 

 contents, which are called rennet. A portion of 

 either put into the milk, which must be left in a 

 state of repose, will in a few hours produce the de- 

 sired separation. The quantity of rennet employed 

 is not, however, a matter of indifference. If too 

 much be used, the curd will remain in parcels, with- 

 out consistency, and altogether deprived of the 

 cream of the milk. If, on the other hand, the quan- 

 tity employed be too small, the separation of the 

 curd from the serum will not be complete. The 

 exact quantity necessary is an affair of experience, 

 which only, a number of trials on different portions 

 of milk enables one to regulate and adjust. A cir- 



* The Schabzieger (cheese made in Switzerland) is of a dif 

 ferent kind. Instead of the curd, the Swiss employ the sedi 

 ment of the serum, and macerate in it a few of the leaves, stems, 

 or seeds of the trifolium pderatum, or blue clover. It is this 

 which gives to the Schabzieger its peculiar and highly aromatic 

 taste and smell. 



