404 FAKMING FOR LADIES. [chap. xxi. 



helpless period of existence, alone stamps it 

 as an aliment of superior quality. It is, there- 

 fore, essential to have it pure : which can only 

 be done when a cow is kept for the use of the 

 family ; for such are the scandalous frauds 

 practised by the retailers who supply it to 

 the citizens, that in no instance is it sold by 

 them in an unadulterated state. 



The cow-keeper, indeed, furnishes the dealer 

 with it in its genuine purity ; but the retail 

 dealers — not satisfied with the large profit 

 granted to them by the great difference of 

 measure — instead of carrying it directly to 

 their customers, first take it home, and there 

 " set it" for a few hours, until the cream is 

 taken from it ; after which it is sold as " new 

 milk." Nor is this all ; for a considerable 

 quantity of water is invariably added to it by 

 these gentry from the pump which stands in 

 the cow-yard, and is significantly known 

 among them as the "black cow," Then 

 pounded chalk, or flour, with some glutinous 

 substance, are mixed with it, both to improve 

 its colour, and to impart to it some appear- 

 ance of richness in quality. 



But, even should a dealer be found honest 



