74 HUNTING WITH THE ESKIMOS 



crawl upon hands and knees. A very strong and 

 oppressive odor permeated the igloos, but in close, 

 continuous contact with Eskimos one readily becomes 

 accustomed to that. 



The abandonment of the summer tupeks for win- 

 ter igloos was the occasion for a kind of religious cel- 

 ebration. I spent two hours at this ceremony, which 

 was conducted in Kudlar's igloo. In the weird light 

 shed by two stone lamps in which seal and norwhal 

 oil was burned, it was very impressive. As yet, how- 

 ever, I had not obtained sufficient grasp upon the 

 language to understand the import of these exercises 

 well enough to describe them adequately or clearly. 

 They were, of course, heathen rites, as no Christian- 

 izing influence has as yet been brought to bear upon 

 the Highland Eskimos. Nevertheless, they are 

 kindly, honest, upright in their dealings, considerate 

 of the comfort of others, self-sacrificing, and most 

 hospitable. 



When the meeting broke up in the igloo, Kulutin- 

 guah came to me and suggested that as now there 

 was no water to be seen, and doubtless a solid pack 

 of ice extended southward to the boat, it would be a 

 good time to go down with dogs and komatiks for the 

 provisions we had left there. This was exceedingly 

 agreeable to me. Kudlar was asked to assist, and, 

 each of them with a komatik and eight dogs, we three 

 made the journey. This was my first dog trip, and 

 though the going was rough I found riding behind 

 dogs great sport. 



At this time we had one of the most glorious nights 



