65 



and in line with the row, and hold them while the shovellers, one 

 on each side, throw on dirt enough to keep them down, as rep- 

 resented in Fig. 27. In this way pass along the rows rapidly, 

 and complete the 

 covering more at 

 leisure. The il- 

 lustration shows 

 at a glance the 

 method of bend- 

 ing down the 

 canes, a repre- 

 senting the 

 mound, and b a Fig> 27. 



shovelful of dirt thrown on the tips as a weight. The mark of 

 cancellation at c indicates the point at which the canes should 

 be pruned to give the plant a bushy form. In the way here 

 described a large " patch " may be gone over in a day, and no 

 labor will be better rewarded, whether the variety be tender or 

 half-hardy. Slight protection will bring the plants through the 

 winter uninjured, and ensure larger and better fruit. Some rec- 

 ommend turning a furrow up to the plants on either side, but 

 this cuts and exposes the roots too much. 



As soon as the frost leaves the ground in spring the plants 

 should be uncovered and tied up to stakes. For removing the 

 dirt from the bushes a fork is preferable to a hoe or shovel. 

 The treatment of the raspberry should be such as to secure 

 mature wood before winter. For this reason the application of 

 manure in mid-summer, and cultivation early in autumn, thereby 

 causing a late growth, should never occur. Top-dressing after 

 the leaves have fallen will do no harm, and the whole ground 

 should be thoroughly cleaned before winter sets in. 



GROWING NEW VARIETIES. 



The raspberry, like the strawberry, may easily be grown from 

 seeds, and this is the method where new varieties are desired. 

 Let the fruit be gathered when perfectly ripe, crushed, and the 

 pulp separated by washing. Always use seeds of the best varie- 

 ties, and from the best specimens of that variety. Select the 

 5 



