101 



They give us the spur method, the renewal 

 method, and a score of others, all well enough, 

 perhaps, if the gardener has the ability to master 

 them, and the time and skill requisite to carry 

 them out in practice. It would be useless for me 

 to describe more than two or three of the most 

 simple methods, such as may be easily under- 

 stood and adopted by any one of fair intelligence. 

 It is presumed that the gentleman of wealth will 

 employ an expert, and intrust the business 

 wholly to him. I am not writing specially for 

 that class, but rather for thousands of farmers 

 and mechanics, owning small tracts of land, 

 where they may grow a succession of fruits for 

 the entire year. 



To recapitulate, Fig. 48 represents a small vine, 

 grown from a single bud, cutting, or layer, in the 

 autumn of its first year, after the leaves have 

 fallen. A plant grown from a layer would usually 

 be stronger than is represented by this cut. This 

 is of suitable size and age, however, for planting 

 out. Cut back to one or two buds at time of 

 transplanting in spring, and allow but one shoot 

 to grow. Tie up to a stake from time to time, 

 and, if laterals make much growth, check them 

 by pinching off. the tender ends occasionally. 

 The vine should present the appearance at the 

 close of the second season as represented in Fig. 

 49. Before growth commences the next spring 

 (see best time to prune hereafter), this cane, as 

 it is now called, is to be cut back to two buds* 

 and a cane grown from each, tying up and pinch- 

 ing in laterals as before. The vine at the end of Fig. 50. 

 the third season is shown by Fig. 50, divested of its foliage. 

 Two marks of cancellation will be observed, showing where 

 each cane is to be cut back at time of pruning. The length of 

 the canes should be as nearly equal as possible, and three or 

 four feet long, for reasons that will soon be obvious. 



This vine is intended to be fixed to a permanent trellis at the 



