PHILATES. 



further into the interior of the country, met with 

 the least difficulty or the shghtest molestation 

 from any of the inhabitants. We were accom- 

 panied from Sayades by what was supposed to be 

 a soldier, who acted as our guard, if a badly 

 armed Albanian, with a wretched firelock, could 

 be considered to be any protection to four En- 

 glishmen, well armed with swords, pistols, and 

 double-barrelled guns. However, the appearance 

 was all that was required, it shewed that we were 

 persons of consequence, and that the shield of 

 the authorities was held over us, but whether that 

 shield was capable of sheltering us or not did not 

 very much signify. 



Arrived at the khan at Philates, where we were 

 to rest ourselves and horses for a short time, 

 our first care was to get something to eat, but the 

 Moslem soldier's thoughts were turned to a more 

 spiritual occupation. Whilst we sat down cross- 

 legged to devour cold meat and eggs, and drink 

 wine-and-water, the pious Turk, at a little dis- 

 tance from us, on the same verandah, a very old 

 wooden one, which extended all the w^ay along 

 the first floor, and from which were the entrances 

 to the different rooms of the khan, was on his 



