CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTER IX. 



Caterina — Kidros — Advantages of being a Christian — Conduct of 

 Turks towards Greeks — Riding in the water — " Desirable resi- 

 dence at a watering-place" — Reach dry land — Cows never 

 milked — Khan — Arrive at Thessalonica — General observations 

 on travelling in Albania Page 184 



CHAPTER X. 



Thessalonica — Plague — Extraordinary review of artillery — Colonel 

 of artillery obliged to turn ship -builder — Visit to the Pasha — 

 St. Paul's Chair — Interior of mosques— Barracks — Prison — 

 Horrible tortures inflicted on five Albanians — Representa- 

 tion to Pasha — Obtain their release — Indignation of Mustafa 

 Pasha Page 201 



CHAPTER XI. 



Female fashions at Salonica — Anecdote of an Ionian — Observa- 

 tions on Salonica — Embark for Constantinople — Smoking into- 

 lerable to those not addicted to it — Dardanelles — Illumination 

 — Anchor in the Golden Horn — Quarantine — Pera — Tower of 

 Galata — How to see Constantinople to perfection — Dancing 

 dervishes — Danger of ladies wearing green dresses ...Page 226 



CHAPTER XII. 



How to see a mosque — Mausoleums — Mustafa the chouash — 

 Slave-market — Condition of slaves — Seven Towers — Turkish 

 saddles — Adventure with a Turkish sentry — Advantage of 

 wearing uniform — The bagnio — Arsenal — Take care of your 

 money — Bazaars Page 246 



