108 ROUTE TO DELVINAKI. 



We, however, treated him very* cavaHerly, and 

 quickly proceeded to make a complaint to the 

 Musseleim or head of the village. On arriving 

 at his house, the worthy Moslem was asleep, and 

 they dare not awaken him, so, after some parley, 

 we, for peace and quietness' sake, agreed to give 

 two piastres and a half (instead of forty), to a man 

 whom the Turk left to receive the money, and 

 were then permitted to proceed without further 

 trouble. 



Our route lay over a barren limestone country, 

 in the course of which we had some magnificent 

 prospects. It is generally uncultivated, though 

 I observed occasionally a vineyard in the ravines. 

 Our rate of travelling during this part of the 

 journey might have been two miles an hour. 

 From being out of the regular post road, we had 

 common country horses which go only at a foot's 

 pace, the guides walking on foot in front. Two 

 of these men were Greeks and the third a Turk. 



Passing Delvinaki, we took up our lodging at 

 a khan on the road side, where we took up our 

 abode for the night, having for our companion a 

 cow, who seemed not best pleased at our politely 

 requesting her to remain on one side of the build- 



