THE KHAN-GEE. 135 



hold up his head, and we were obliged to remain 

 in a recumbent posture both while cooking 

 and eating our meal. Sleep soon came to our 

 aid, and I have had many a worse night's rest than 

 that on the top of the Pindus, although the fire 

 roasted one side of my body whilst the cold froze 

 the other, and if I opened my unfortunate eyes I 

 could with difficulty shut them again. I must 

 not forget to make honourable mention of my 

 friend, the khan-gee, as the keeper of the khan 

 is called. He seemed scarcely ever to have seen 

 European travellers before, and told us it was 

 three years since a party had passed that way. 

 What excited his astonishment most, which, 

 indeed, I found to be generally the case with 

 Albanians when they observed me taking notes, 

 was to see me writing rather quickly some hiero- 

 glyphics in my memorandum-book. He examined 

 it thoroughly, appeared much pleased, and gave 

 a good grin or two when he saw my hand running 

 at a good pace over the paper. He could not at 

 all comprehend what I could possibly find to write 

 about ; I told him, every thing that occurred to 

 me. " Well then," said he, '' do you write about 

 me, or mention my name ? " " Oh ! yes,*" said I ; 



