DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN. 137 



quence, the fellows who bring pipes and coffee 

 expect backshish ; in fact, a traveller's hand must 

 be pretty constantly in his pocket, although a 

 trifle will generally suffice, and in no country is the 

 efficacy of a silver key to open any lock more 

 manifest than in Turkey. 



We rose the next morning at daylight, and the 

 effect of the sun, when first appearing on the 

 Thessalian side, exceeded, if possible, the extreme 

 beauty of his disappearance the night before, be- 

 hind the crags of the Epirus chains of mountains. 



In descending through the snow, we met with no 

 difficulty, except the falhng occasionally of the 

 horses, without injuring themselves or their riders, 

 and which produced no further effect than an 

 animated discussion between my companion and 

 myself, as to whether a horse ought under such 

 circumstances to be held up or not. 



As we were descending, we fell in with a very 

 old Albanian chief, a person of some considerable 

 importance, but whose name, I regret very much, 

 I could not get hold of He was on his way to 

 Larissa, to see the Pasha Mustafa, having been 

 sent for by him. He was surrounded by his suite, 

 and the wild, graceful costume of red trimmed 



