CROSS THE PENEUS. 159 



thority should take from them their hardly-earned 

 gains ! I never met anywhere in Albania, persons 

 in whose countenances there was so great an 

 appearance of happiness and contentment as in 

 these Kravariots. 



Before reaching Larissa, we entered a flat- 

 bottomed barge, and were ferried across the 

 Peneus, the current of which appeared very rapid, 

 perhaps running five or six knots, and its muddi- 

 ness very ill according with the poet's description, 

 when he calls it the " silvery" Peneus. 



After crossing, we came to a more hilly, but 

 very open country, the ground gently undulating 

 with long smooth features, most magnificent for 

 a field of battle, and the most advantageous 

 ground for cavalry I ever saw. 



Near Larissa is the ruin of an aqueduct which 

 formerly supplied the town with water. It is en- 

 tirely destroyed, and appears as if it had been a 

 long time in that state. I understand that a pasha, 

 some years ago, had this aqueduct constructed 

 for the supply of the town, bringing water from a 

 considerable distance, that at Larissa being bad, 

 unwholesome, thick, and muddy. As soon as it 



