176 DOGANA DUES. 



he had not a teschere. In fact, they were deter- 

 mined to have backshish some how or other, 

 whilst we, on the contrary, were equally deter- 

 mined that they should not ; so, after telHng them 

 they had better not interfere with us, as we were 

 travelling under the protection of the pasha's 

 bouyourdi, after some talk they allowed us to 

 proceed. 



A little further on, we encountered the head 

 man of the same dogana on horseback, who, of 

 course, wanted likewise to see our teschere. We 

 grumbled and shewed it him, and he grumbled 

 and gave it back. Grumbled, I say, because he 

 seemed disappointed that he could get nothing 

 out of us, and surprised that we should have a 

 bouyourdi from the pasha, by virtue of which 

 we travelled free of dogana dues. " Where are 

 you going?" he of course asked us. On being 

 told Istamboul (eig rr]v ttoXlv), — " What are you 

 going there for?" " For amusement." This reply 

 puzzled the inquisitive gentleman more and more. 

 He was completely bewildered, as a Turk cannot, 

 for the life of him, comprehend why persons should 

 take so long a journey and undergo so much 

 inconvenience for pleasure only; and why we 



