192 ARRIVE ON DRY GROUND. 



particular in following, found ourselves at last on 

 dry ground, where I was not sorry to put on the 

 articles of dress I had been so long riding without, 

 and of which I now experienced the benefit. 

 Our principal difficulty throughout was to keep 

 the baggage-horse upon his legs in the water. 

 We did not care about getting wet ourselves, but 

 arriving at a dreary, comfortless khan, not only 

 dripping wet, but with nothing in the shape of a 

 change of clothes, is as miserable a predicament 

 as can be well imagined. 



After crossing another river on a strong, well- 

 built wooden bridge, about a quarter of a mile 

 long, we came to a halt about seven o'clock in the 

 evening at a khan two hours distant from Salo- 

 nica. The gates of Salonica, like those of all for- 

 tified places in this part of the world, are closed 

 at sunset, consequently no one can gain admit- 

 tance after that time, and being aware of this, we 

 decided, when we found it so late, on stopping 

 for the night at the khan we had reached. 



The whole of this country is an immense plain. 

 For miles nothing is to be seen but water or pas- 

 ture, but there is a background to the picture of 

 bold and majestic mountains. The marsh, how- 



