cows NEVER MILKED. 193 



ever, renders it dreadfully unhealthy, and I have 

 been told that it is difficult to point out a spot 

 where the inhabitants suffer more from malaria 

 fever than they do at Salonica. We observed in 

 the plain large droves of cows, with their calves, 

 feeding on the magnificent pasture which is here 

 so abundant. On asking for some milk when 

 we got to the khan, we were given as much as we 

 wanted, and they appeared scarcely to expect any 

 remuneration for doing so. I inquired what use 

 they made of it. " None at all." " But do 

 you make no butter?" " No." " Nor cheese ?" 

 " No, not of cows' milk. We make goat cheese, 

 but no other." " Then you never milk the cows ?" 

 " No. Why should we ?" It appears that they 

 keep these droves of horned cattle solely to raise 

 calves, which, when grown up into oxen, are sold 

 and driven away to other parts. It is extraordi- 

 nary that in most of these countries they consider 

 cows' milk as poor and inferior, and rarely use any 

 but that of either goats or sheep. 



Our khan was a sort of shop of all kinds. They 

 baked and sold bread, and sold wine and all sorts 

 of eatables. It was not the best lodging in the 

 world, but we slept soundly after our day's work. 



K 



