AT SALONICA. 207 



troops. I found out that I had seen him before, 

 on my first visit to Janina. He came into the 

 room where we were waiting his arrival, dressed 

 most gorgeously in a red hussar kind of dress, 

 completely covered with gold lace and braiding, 

 and wearing blue trowsers with gold lace. 



At each of these houses we remained from 

 half an hour to an hour, the time being occupied 

 in smoking, drinking coffee, sherbet, or lemonade, 

 or eating sweetmeats, which are usually offered 

 on visits of ceremony, a Turkish custom, I believe, 

 originally, but which has been adopted by the 

 Greeks likewise. A tray being handed round 

 which contains several glasses of cold water and 

 a plate or two of sweetmeat of some kind, each 

 person takes a spoon, dips it into whichever sweet- 

 meat he prefers, takes as much as he can get, and 

 carries it to his mouth. Having eaten it, a glass 

 of water is taken to wash it down, the spoon 

 which has been used being left in the glass. On 

 putting down the glass, as in returning the coffee- 

 cup to the slave after drinking it, it is customary 

 to make a bend or bow to the master of the house. 

 Considering, therefore, that I had been pipe smok- 

 ing, and coffee, and lemonade, and sherbet drink- 



