APPENDIX. 349 



One of my first expeditions from hence was to the 

 Bay of Phanari, situated about six miles to the south- 

 ward of the town of Parga, into which bay flows, what 

 many are pleased to designate, the river Styx ; whe- 

 ther it be the original one, where old Charon presided, 

 or no, I cared not to question. The entrance to this 

 river is very narrow, and very difficult of access in con- 

 sequence of a strong run of water continually flowing 

 out of its mouth, fed by the rains, falling on the high 

 Suli range of mountains situated immediately above. 

 Having once got within this marine gateway, the pano- 

 rama which presented itself was most enchanting, wild, 

 and romantic. Having anchored late in the afternoon, 

 we had no time that day to use our guns, but went on 

 shore for a few moments to pay our compliments to the 

 Doganari, or chief officer of the customs, there being no 

 resident Bey. He received us kindly, and with that 

 never-failing resource of the Turks, coffee and pipes. 



On the following morning, after as good a breakfast 

 as, I believe, only the natives of our own. favoured isles 

 can eat, we set off to see if any woodcocks had come down 

 into the lower country ; unfortunately we were badly off 

 for dogs, having but one old retriever, old Cadow, and 

 one young unbroken pointer with us. Having but small 

 previous knowledge of the country, I had much difficulty 

 in choosing the good ground ; but, in the sequel, we 

 were well repaid for our pains, and succeeded in bring- 

 ing home forty woodcocks, which, considering all things, 

 perfectly satisfied us both. I had taken the precaution 

 to bring on shore with me (a practice I have always 

 found very useful, and by no means expensive) some 



