THE TURTLES OF SAND-KEY ISLAND. 193 



according to the supply in the market. It is strange 

 that France, which too often follows the example of 

 England in very questionable directions, has not 

 had the good sense to adopt this good English 

 fashion, so that the Parisian epicure might order at 

 Phihppe's or the Cafe Anglais a howl of turtle at 

 something like a reasonable price. Yet how rarely 

 does a turtle make its appearance in our markets, 

 and when it does so, how difficult to find a pur- 

 chaser ! I must confess that my compatriots in this 

 respect ignore " one of the finest dishes known," 

 as an American called a boucan, the first time I had 

 the pleasure of tasting one. 



This is an exquisite composition, and the flavour 

 perfection. Its appearance is peculiar, I must 

 admit, but it is not difficult to grow accustomed to 

 it. Let us suppose the plastron, or undermost shell 

 of the turtle, with a portion of flesh and fat still 

 adhering. This flesh is green in colour, and of 

 delicious flavour. It has been saturated with lemon- 

 juice, and flavoured with pimento, salt, pepper, 

 cloves, and eggs beaten up. It has then been 

 placed in the oven, under the superintendence of a 

 black armed with a spit, whose duty it is to break 

 up from time to time the crust which is formed by 

 the eggs, and to allow the same to permeate the 

 whole stew. When it is all cooked to a moment, 

 it is served quite hot, and meets with invariable 

 and universal approbation. 



