THE COOKERY OF THE TROUT 267 



must have been connoisseurs on all cookery on their 

 jours. However maigres, the trout dressed au bleu 

 is something of a compromise. * Clean the trout, 

 put them in a saucepan in the pint of boiling vinegar 

 which turns them blue. Add as much Chablis or 

 Pouilly with water till the trout are covered. Put 

 in a few bay leaves, salt, pepper, an onion with some 

 cloves, the peel of a lemon, a little celery and parsley, 

 and boil for a quarter of an hour. Serve with oil and 

 vinegar/ 



Small and somewhat flavourless trout nevertheless 

 make an excellent souchet, and a souchet, after all, 

 must depend on the appendages for its savour. ' Boil 

 a few parsley roots in a pint and a half of water 

 for five minutes ; add a teaspoonful of grated horse- 

 radish and a teaspoonful of salt. Put in five or six 

 small trout, boil, skim, simmer for twelve minutes. 

 Serve in the water with the parsley, in a deep dish, 

 and send up the thin brown bread and butter, de 

 rigueur? Analogous to the trout au bleu is the dressing 

 a la Genevoise, doubtless a delicate compliment to 

 those trout of Geneva which we praised. ' Clean, but 

 do not scale. Put a little court bouillon in a stewpan 

 with parsley roots, cloves, parsley, bay leaves, onions 

 and a carrot. Stew for an hour, strain the liquor 

 over the trout in a small fish pan with a glass of 



