268 THE TROUT 



Madeira. When boiled, drain and remove the scales ; 

 then put it in the pan with a little of the liquor. 

 Make a thickening and add veal gravy or red wine ; 

 season with mushrooms, parsley and green onions. 

 Stew till smooth. Strain the sauce over the dished 

 fish, with squeeze of lemon, essence of anchovy and 

 some mace.' 



To make a superlative court bouillon, season a 

 gallon of water with salt, carrots, parsley, eschalots, 

 thyme, bay leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns and 

 a few cloves. Stew and strain, adding two bottles of 

 red wine and one of white.' The recipe sounds ex- 

 travagant, but then the marinade may be kept and 

 used repeatedly, with the addition of a little water. 

 And we must reiterate that a rich dressing of the sort 

 should only be used with trout that are either inferior 

 or somewhat stale. 



Yet that is not the opinion of M. Urban Dubois, 

 who as a Court cook is inclined to swear by the 

 court bouillon. And M. Dubois ranks the sea-trout 

 and lake-trout scarcely below the princely salmon 

 he adores, and he gives some elaborate recipes for 

 ornamental plats de luxe, intended for banquets or 

 ball suppers. This is his recipe for salmon-trout 

 a la Chambord, which used to be a sp'ecialite, both at 

 Philippe's and the Fr&res Provengaux. ' The trout is 



