THE COOKERY OF THE TROUT 269 



stuffed and trussed, then fixed on the drainer of a 

 fish-kettle, taking care to place it on its belly; it is 

 covered with a good court bouillon and cooked in it ; the 

 liquor must be poured out cold on the fish ; it is after- 

 wards brought to ebullition, but immediately removed 

 from the fire. A salmon-trout of about ten pounds 

 must remain an hour and a quarter in its liquor, kept 

 at the same degree of heat, but without any visible 

 ebullition. The trout is dished immediately, resting 

 on its belly ; but for more safety it must be kept in 

 equilibrium by means of fried bread crusts put so as 

 to keep the fish upright ; this bread must be masked 

 with raw forcemeat and poached in the oven. The 

 garnish which surrounds the fish is composed, on 

 one side, of mushroom heads, whole truffles, small 

 quenelles ; on the other it is composed of carp-milts, 

 crayfish tails, or a whole crayfish with the tails 

 trimmed, and lastly with quenelles.' All these 

 garnishes are slightly masked with Genevoise or 

 matelote sauce ; the remainder is served in a sauce- 

 boat. It may be observed that, except for purposes 

 of ostentation, the dish would be better were the 

 trout half the size. The bigger fish might be turned 

 to good account for the slices a la Jeanne (TArc. 



' Six fine slices compose the entree : they are 

 pickled cold, grilled, then dished up on a bread or a 



