In the Azores. 369 



account for the existence of numerous woodcock, also 

 non-migratory, I know not. On arrival at the island 

 we put up at Mrs. Edwards' hotel, an Irishwoman 

 married to an English-speaking Portuguese. There 

 we were fairly comfortable, and the charges were 

 moderate ; but very shortly afterwards they parted 

 with their interest in it to a native of the isles, and 

 things went to the bad. We were fortunately able 

 to secure a very good house, about a mile out of 

 Horta, the capital, belonging to a Mr. Lane, who 

 had formerly been manager of the only bank in the 

 place. It was built on Indian lines, that is, it was 

 one-storied, had verandahs on three sides, ample 

 accommodation inside the house, and plenty of out- 

 offices and garden. The difficulty of getting furniture 

 was great. There was not a decent mattress procur- 

 able in the island ; we had to manufacture them our- 

 selves, stuffing them with the husks of the Indian corn. 

 The pillows were stuffed with a kind of wild cotton. 



On the island there are neither springs nor streams 

 but, during the rains, rivulets ; however, these cease 

 with the monsoon. The islands are wholly volcanic, 

 but none have been in an active state for many years 

 past. The markets are fairly supplied. Meat, fowls 

 and wine of the country good and cheap. If you live 

 like one of the inhabitants, a very small income will 

 suffice, but the Customs duties are prohibitive. I got 

 over a few hams and a side of bacon. I was not only 

 charged duty on the articles themselves, but on the 

 salt in which they were packed ! The Portuguese are 

 the same everywhere, a grasping and a dirty race. I 

 allude to the upper or governing classes in the first 

 charge, and to the lower in the second. There is an 



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