440 COOKING. 



On your return, while seeing your dogs fed, which 

 every sportsman ought to do, 



Let the soup be put on the fire for twenty minutes, with some 

 fresh vegetables (if you like to have them), and, for the last ten 

 minutes, boil again the square piece of meat which was reserved. 

 Another necessary part of the recipe also should be prescribed, 

 lest the dish should fall into disrepute. To prevent the deputy 

 cook from helping himself, and filling it up with water, let him 

 have a partnership in the concern ; and when he has occasion to 

 quit the room, he should either lock the door, or leave one of your 

 relay dogs for a sentry. 



You will then have a good wholesome gravy soup 

 to begin with; and, afterwards, some tender meat, 

 which if 



Eat with mustard, a little raw parsley chopped fine, and a few 

 anchovies, 



you will, it is presumed, find an excellent dish. A 

 pot of anchovies might easily be carried in a port- 

 manteau, being, of all the luxuries from an oil shop, 

 one of the most portable and the most useful. 



Nothing, however, is worse than a mock anchovy, 

 which is merely a salted bleak, or other inferior small 

 fish, flavoured with a little anchovy liquor *. 



* To be sure of having the real Gorgona fish, I have always 

 gone to Signor Bassano, who removed from Castle Street to 

 Jermyn Street, and who, I believe, has not yet got up to the 

 tricks which are practised by some of the grandee oilmen. Since 

 the lust edition, however, he was in the numerous list of bank- 

 rupts ; but has now resumed business, at No. 4, Carlton Street, 

 Regent Street. 



