SUBSTITUTES FOR LUXURIES. 449 



abundant, but where we are the least able to have 

 them dressed in perfection. For example : 



There is no better sauce for a wildfowl, plover, or snipe, than 

 equal quantities of olive oil and lemon juice. Cayenne pepper, 

 when mixed with a little vinegar, gives a fine relish to a phea- 

 sant, or any other game. With good oil you can, in most places, 

 during the fishing season, have a French salad made with the 

 young leaves of the wild dandelion ; or, in the shooting season, 

 a German salad, called in some parts of Germany, I believe, 

 " ha r to f el salat" with slices of cold boiled waxy potatoes. Either 

 of these, with a few onions, an anchovy, and two spoonsful of oil 

 to every one of vinegar (or equal quantities of each to the German 

 one), make a very good salad; or, at all events, a good substitute 

 for one, where perhaps the lettuce, cress, or endive, are scarcely 

 known to the inhabitants. Tarragon vinegar, for salads, is gene- 

 rally preferred to the other vinegar. (Let me observe, by the 

 way, that the chief art of dressing a salad consists in wiping per- 

 fectly dry whatever it is made with, and cutting off the flabby 

 parts from the leaves of the herbs.) If you have no good butter, 

 for your fish, you will find, that with a little cayenne, a spoonful 

 of the liquor from your anchovies, and some lemon, or vinegar, 

 olirr oil, and mustard, it will be perfectly good. Nothing is 

 better than a dish of small birds fried, and eat with oil arid 

 lemon juice ; and if you have no good butter to fry them with, 

 here again some oil must be your substitute. 



If you have no biscuits to eat with your wine, or, what you 

 may drink for want of it, cut some slices of raw potatoe very thin ; 

 have them broiled, or fried, brown and crisp with your oil, and 

 sprinkled with a little Cayenne pepper; but, in dressing them, 

 let the slices lie independent of each other, or they will become 

 soft by fermentation. If you wish for a hash, or any thing dressed 

 by way of variety from plain cooking, you can always give it a 

 flavour, if you have cayenne, lemon, and anchovy. 



In short, the ingredients here named, as general 



G G 



