338 



AQUATICS 



AQUATICS 



AQUATICS. A term applied to plants suited to cul- 

 tivation only in water, particularly to those grown in 

 ponds and tanks. 



North America is the most highly favored country 

 in the world for the cultivation of aquatic plants. Col- 

 lections can easily be made to furnish a display of flow- 

 ers from April to October in the open without artificial 

 heat. There are numerous aquatic plants other than 

 nympheas, nelumbiums and victorias. Some very de- 

 sirable plants are Acorus japonica variegata (varie- 

 gated sweet flag), Aponogeton distachyus (Cape pond- 



289. Lawn pond of aquatics, with mason-work margin. 



weed, or water hawthorn), Callha palustris and C. palus- 

 tris fl. pi. (marsh marigolds), Cyperus Papyrus (Egyp- 

 tian paper plant), limnanthemums in variety. Some 

 of the bog or marsh plants may be used in margins, as 

 many varieties of sagittaria, not omitting the common 

 cat-tail, Typha latifolia, the hibiscus of mammoth pro- 

 portion, and the beautiful new hybrids with gorgeous 

 flowers of all shades from pink to scarlet and crimson. 

 See Bog-gardening. Figs. 289 and 290 show formal 

 and informal lawn ponds. 



Soil. All aquatics require a rich soil, and this with- 

 out limit, a depth of water from 1 to 3 feet, and ample 

 space to spread their succulent leaves. In a natural 

 pond, in which there is an accumulation of humus over- 

 laying a clayey subsoil, nothing more is wanted, but 

 on a sandy or gravelly bottom it is necessary to place 

 a layer of rich earth 12 to 18 inches deep. In artificial 

 ponds, built of masonry (Fig. 289), a layer of rich soil is 

 necessary if the things are to be planted out, as is best 

 for nelumbiums. The soil best suited for aquatics is 

 a turfy loam, inclining to heavy, and thoroughly rotted 

 cow-manure, two parts of the former to one of the latter, 

 and, when possible, it should be composted some time 

 before using, and turned over two or three times 

 to thoroughly incorporate the manure. When cow- 

 manure can not be obtained, other thoroughly rotted 

 manure may be used. The next best fertilizer is pulver- 

 ized sheep-manurej but this, being less bulky and 

 stronger in proportion, should not be used so freely as 

 other manures; one part sheep-manure to nine of soil 

 is sufficient. Chemical manures, ground bone, horn 

 shavings, and the like should not be used unless in 

 extreme cases, and then very cautiously. Tankage may 

 be used to good advantage. It contains dried blood, 

 and ground bone. It is very desirable for permanent 

 beds or soils that may continue two or more seasons 

 without renewing. The bone is not readily dissolved 

 and has a lasting quality. Blood, being soluble, has 

 immediate effect and is a valuable fertilizer, if used 

 sparingly. 



Depth of water. In natural ponds, water-lilies are 

 found growing in water from a few inches to 4 and 6 

 feet deep, but in artificial ponds a depth of 12 to 18 

 inches .will be found sufficient for most nympheas, and 

 18 to 24 inches is a good depth for victorias. In con- 

 structing an artificial pond, a depth of 2 to 2}^ feet is 

 ample. Water to the depth of 12 inches above the 

 crowns of the plants is sufficient, and a box containing 

 the soil may be 12 inches deep. Thus a pond 2 feet in 

 depth is deep enough, and will allow a man, with hip 



boots on, to walk between the plants with ease. For a 

 small pond, less than 12 feet over, a plank laid ac 

 will suffice for all operations. 



Protection. Where severe frosts are prevalent in 

 winter, and ice 12 to 18 inches in thickness is found, 

 there will be danger of the roots freezing. In such cases, 

 an additional depth of 6 inches will be a great advantage, 

 and a protection of bracken, salt hay, green manure, 

 leaves, or any other non-conducting materials should be 

 used to protect the masonry, in severe weather, against 

 expansion and breakage. To protect tubs, small pools 

 or ponds, cover with boards and pile on dry leaves to 

 the depth of 8 or 12 inches, then salt hay or fresh stable- 

 manure to keep the leaves from blowing away. This is 

 one of the best means of protection against freezing. 

 The general use of concrete work instead of brick and 

 stone is to be commended. Reinforcement makes thi 

 walls frost-proof and water-proof. 



Planting. All hardy nympheas maybe planted an., 

 time between the 1st of April and the 1st of September. 

 Those planted early, other things being equal, will give 

 good results the same season, while those planted late 

 will get well established before winter, and will be in 

 excellent condition to start at nature's summons early 

 the following spring. The hardy nympheas differ con- 

 siderably as to rootstocks. Those of the native species 

 are long and of a spongy, soft texture, and rambling 

 in growth, while the European species have a much 

 larger and very firm rootstock, and grow more compact. 

 In planting, all that is necessary is to press the root- 

 stock firmly into the soil, and if there is any danger of 

 the root rising to the surface, place a brick or any weight 

 upon it, to keep it in position until anchored by its own 

 roots. Tender nympheas should not be planted until 

 the latter end of May or beginning of June, according to 

 location. They should not be planted out before coleus, 

 alternanthera, and other tender bedding plants. They 

 require to be started indoors, and will be grown in pots, 

 which are much handier to plant than roots of the 

 hardy varieties, and can be planted under the watei 

 with ease and facility. Nelumbiums should not b 

 planted until about the 1st of May. Southward the 

 season is earlier. The existing conditions should be 

 such that tubers shall start at once into active growth. 



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290. A lawn pond. 



