BULB 



BULB 



589 



682. Scaly bulb of Lilium 

 pardalinum. 



for many sorts are liable to fall over from the weight of 

 the spike and are quickly soiled when they lie on the 

 ground. If the item of expense is to be taken into 

 account, it is possible to use second-size bulbs of hya- 

 rimlis. often listed as bedding sizes, with satisfactory 

 results, although only fine bulbs give fine bloom. 



In planting bulbs in "design beds," it pays for the 

 extra trouble first to remove the soil to a depth of 6 

 inches, spade up the lower 

 soil, using well-rotted manure 

 and plenty of bone dust 

 worked in. Then level off, 

 smooth, and cover with an 

 inch of sand. This prevents 

 the manure from touching the 

 bulbs, and allows the water 

 to drain away from immedi- 

 ate contact with them, thus 

 removing causes which may 

 lead to their decay. Bulbs 

 set in this manner on the 

 sand may be placed in their 

 exact position, after which 

 the top soil is carefully re- 

 placed. It is a difficult matter to set bulbs just 4 

 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart with an ordinary 

 trowel. The planter is almost sure occasionally to chop 

 off a piece of a neighboring bulb or displace it. Bulbs 

 planted in the manner advised, being all of an even 

 depth, will flower uniformly; often, when planted with a 

 trowel, some bulbs will be an inch too high and some an 

 inch too low, which in early spring makes considerable 

 difference in the time of blooming. Besides, when 

 bulbs are planted with a trowel or dibble, there is dan- 

 ger of "hanging" a bulb occasionally, where it may 

 perish on account of not touching bottom. 



Hardy bulbs in the herbaceous garden, mixed flower- 

 border, or lavm. 



The mixed border is a favorite place for most hardy 

 bulbs. They should be planted in little colonies here 

 and there among the hardy plants and shrubs; and it is 

 here that bulbs seem to thrive and give the most pleas- 

 ure. As spring approaches, the somber winter browns 

 and dull greens of the deciduous and evergreen plants 

 are suddenly transformed into an unrivaled setting, 

 studded with brilliantly colored and fragrant flowers, 

 the contrasts being exceedingly effective and cheery; 

 and besides, from the border one does not hesitate to 

 cut a few flowers for the house for fear of spoiling the 

 effect, as would be the case in formal bedding. Further- 

 more, bulbs seem to do better and last longer in a border 

 because the flowers are cut freely in bud or when just 

 approaching their prime, which is the best possible time 

 for the benefit of the bulb, for the efforts of any bulb 

 to form seeds weakens the bulb. A hyacinth bulb that 

 matures seed is virtually destroyed. Then again, in an 

 herbaceous border the bulbs are not disturbed through 

 the necessity for replacing them with other flowering 

 plants, as such a mixed border when properly planted 

 should do much itself to hide the withering leaves. The 

 foliage then remains uninjured until ripe, thus ful- 

 filling its duty of recharging the bulb with new energy 

 for the next season's display. Of course, after three or 

 four years, the bulbs should be divided if they have 

 grown and spread, and judgment must be used to 

 determine when the lifting should be done with the 

 least injury to the other permanent subjects in the 

 border. It is best, perhaps, to associate with the bulbs 

 plants that are not seriously injured by being moved. 



Bold clumps of the taller bulbous plants are very 

 effective on the lawn, where beds of one kind should 

 be isolated, and be given a position not too prominent 

 nor too near. The object desired is a mass of one color, 

 which at a little distance is more striking on account of 

 the contrast with the surrounding green grass and trees. 



Among the best hardy bulbous plants for this purpose 

 are: hemerocallis, such lilies as candidum, Henryi, 

 tigrinum, speciosum and auratum; also dicentra, crown 

 imperials, montbretias, tritomas, peonies, and Kaemp- 

 feri and germanica irises. 



Bulbs planted right in the sod on the lawn make a 

 very pleasing picture when in bloom in the early spring. 

 Make patches here and there of golden, white and 

 purple crocus, the little chionodoxas, snowdrops, Scilla 

 armena, winter aconite, snowflakes, bulbocodium and 

 triteleia. These grow, increase, bloom and ripen the 

 foliage mostly before it is necessary to use the lawn- 

 mower, so that the surface of the lawn in summer is not 

 marred. The bulbs may be dibbled in when the ground 

 is moist and soft during the fall rains, but it is better to 

 cut and turn back the sod here and there, plant the 

 bulbs under it, then press the sod back again. 



For parks, groves and wild outlying grounds beyond 

 the closely clipped lawn, a very happy style of "natural- 

 izing" bulbous and other plants is coming much into 

 vogue. Such bulbs should be used as can be planted in 

 quantity, twenty-five to a hundred or more of a kind in 

 a patch, and only those should be used which are hardy, 

 and will flower and thrive and increase under neglect. 

 Fortunately, there are many bulbous plants that suc- 

 ceed even better in such rough places than in the prim 

 garden. Among them are hardy anemones, camassia, 

 convallaria, dicentras, erythroniums, funkias, certain 

 iris, liliums, poet's narcissus, Von Sion and many other 

 narcissi, trilhums, and numerous others. 



In regard to the preparation of beds for hardy bulbs, 

 planting and treatment, one can only generalize. De- 

 tailed directions suited to the different species, and also 

 varieties where treatment varies, will be found under 

 their respective headings in this Cyclopedia. As a rule, 

 well-rotted manure (mind that it is well-rotted, not 

 fresh and heating) should be liberally applied and dug 

 into the ground deeply. It must be where the long, 

 feeding roots can get at it, and yet not touch the bulbs, 

 nor be too near their base. This is easily accomplished 

 by removing a few inches of the top soil first, as de- 

 scribed under "Design Bedding" above. If it is imprac- 

 ticable to do this, then it is not advisable to use manure 

 at all, for the bulbs are liable to come in contact with 

 it and become diseased. Bone meal alone is then the 

 safest fertilizer to use, and it should be applied lavishly. 

 Most bulbs like rich food if properly applied. Although 

 the embryo flowers were formed within the bulb the 

 season before, yet their size, luxuriance and brilliancy 

 this season depend largely upon the nutrition the roots 

 receive. Liberal applica- 

 tions of manure water, 

 when the bulbs are in 

 bud, often produce ex- 

 cellent results. 



The proper depth to 

 plant bulbs varies ac- 

 cording to the kinds. It 

 is a common fault to 

 plant them too near the 

 surface. Some kinds, 

 notably the Californian 

 Humboldtii and Wash- 

 ingtonianum lilies, do 

 best when 10 to 12 inches 

 deep; hyacinths, tulips, 

 narcissi, and similar 

 large bulbs from 4 to 6 

 inches deep; smaller bulbs somewhat shallower. A 

 good rule to follow is to make the depth three times 

 the average diameter of the bulbs. Hardy bulbs root 

 during the fall and early winter, and if planted too 

 near the surface the freezing, thawing and heaving of 

 the upper crust of soil in mild winters often causes the 

 bulbs to break from their roots, and, in consequence, 

 only inferior flowers are produced. When good cold 



683. Conn or solid bulb of 

 gladiolus. 



