THE SPORTSMAN IN FRANCE. 37 



partook only of some potent cafe noir, 

 and eschewed the sohds until we should 

 arrive at the renowned hotel, where we 

 knew nothing would be wanting to gra- 

 tify the most fastidious palate. 



The chef of La Grande Maison in the 

 good town of Rennes is an artiste of 

 infinite merit — a Vatel in his way. His 

 genius is inventive, and his knowledge 

 profound. His whole soul is wrapt up 

 in his vocation ; and his only source of 

 regret is, that his talent should be em- 

 ployed in Brittany, where the major part 

 of the community are not blessed with 

 sufficient discriminatory power to distin- 

 guish between a salmi and a civet. 



I had the privilege — the distinguished 

 honour, I ought to say — of being ad- 

 mitted to more than one private audience 

 with this talented individual. To me did 

 he communicate his secret sorrows, and 

 to me also did he impart some of his 



