140 THE SPORTSMAN IN FRANCE. 



First comes the succulent huitre cVOs- 

 tende, a dozen or two of which it is 

 orthodox to swallow prior to the discus- 

 sion of the dainties which await you in 

 this temple of Epicurism. 



These delicate little avant couriers are 

 washed down with a glass or more of 

 iced chably, by which time, it is presumed, 

 the appetite is whetted to the proper pitch 

 for attacking the more substantial fare. 

 The oysters are succeeded by the appe- 

 tizing cotelettes a la tartare, kidneys stewed 

 in champagne, pouletsa la Marengo, Sipdte 

 defoie gras, and the meretricious dinde aux 

 truffes. These are the condiments that 

 constitute a dejeuner de garpon in Paris ; 

 and of all this fascinating food did we 

 partake after our popping-match. Every 

 sort of wine in the host's cave was tasted, 

 from humble port to imperial Tokay. 



To an Englishman these vinous break- 

 fasts are oppressive in the extreme, and 



