THE SPORTSMAN IN FRANCE. 143 



time of it. The partridges were very 

 plentiful, and as for the quails, they 

 were hterally in swarms in the neigh- 

 bourhood of the vineyards and the plan- 

 tations of hemp ; the numbers were 

 inconceivably great, perfectly incredible ; 

 and he who desires to eat this delicate 

 bird in perfection, should run down to 

 Mer'y, from Paris, and if he do not thank 

 me for the hint, there is no gratitude 

 extant. 



And then the wine ! I could write a 

 library in its praises. The champagne- 

 drinker of this country would scarcely 

 recognise his favourite beverage were he 

 to taste the wine as made on the spot, 

 so great is the difference between the ex- 

 hilarating nectar, as drank at the vineyard 

 itself, and the wine we so much covet 

 here. They are both champagne wines, 

 it is true. Hodgson's pale ale, and table- 

 beer, are both malt liquors ; but which is 



