TWO DIANAS IN ALASKA 39 



berg, and then passed on to spend themselves in 

 battle with each opposing crest. 



Before we reached Yakutat we touched the fringe 

 of a majestic storm. It began in sudden squalls from 

 the mountains, termed in Alaska "woollies," though 

 there is nothing soft or wool-like about them, and 

 before long we had to lie to in a heavy sea. The 

 tempest raged for three hours, and often we could see 

 nothing for the spray driven before the wind. Banks 

 of foamy clouds were piled up on a lurid sky, and 

 at intervals lightning played about the horizon. It 

 was a dark, impressive scene, and had a very sober- 

 ing effect on all our spirits. The men were drenched 

 to the skin in the war with the elements. 



An albatross, with great stretch of wings, hung 

 over us, in the teeth of the gale, his head slowly 

 turning from side to side. The vast wings never 

 flapped, the bird seemed to cleave the air in graceful 

 lengthy curves and slants. Now and again it disap- 

 peared into the mists, to return like some strange 

 solitary spirit of the storm, whose air of complete dis- 

 regard for weather and wind was magnificent in its 

 spontaneity. 



To the north-west of Yakutat lies the great glacier 

 which is christened after Malespina, the Spanish 

 navigator who explored for the North-west Passage 

 more than a century ago. Monarch of all the 

 glaciers it has a frontage of fifty miles, and goes back 

 thirty more to the ranges of Mount St. Elias. The 

 sea for miles around is tinged with the "glacier 

 milk." 



