THE SAMOAN OR NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS. 213 



20 in breadth. It has never been so populous or important 

 as the other islands, and its inhabitants were the last to 

 become Christians. It has a low shore with a gradually rising 

 slope to the centre, where there are a few extinct craters to be 

 seen. A lofty peak in the middle of the island is generally 

 invisible through clouds. This is the highest land in the 

 group, and according to Commander Wilkes, certainly exceeds 

 4000 feet. Mr. Whitmee states that he has ascended a peak 

 in the centre of Savaii, which he measured with an aneroid, 

 and found to be 4760 feet high. Water is comparatively 

 scarce in some parts of Savaii, owing to the porous nature of 

 the rock (vesicular lava) of which it is composed, but this 

 applies only to a small portion, the greater part being the best 

 watered of any of the islands. Near the shore, there are 

 numerous springs of good fresh water. The coral reef is 

 broken to the west and south. The soil, composed of decom- 

 posed volcanic rock and vegetable mould, is very fertile. 



A curious ceremony occasionally takes place in Savaii in 

 connection with the betrothal of any Samoan lady of rank to 

 a chief, the leading feature of which is that the virtue of the 

 bride-elect is publicly placed beyond a doubt in the presence 

 of the bridegrodm. I need not add that this practice has 

 been most zealously opposed by the missionaries, Catholic and 

 Protestant, though the conservative Samoans, like my friend 

 the Taviuni chief, will now and again break out for the ' old 

 paths. ' 



Ten miles to the eastward of Savaii is the island of Upolu. 

 It is about 40 miles long and 13 broad. A main ridge ex- 



o o 



tends from east to west, broken here and there into sharp 

 peaks. Small ridges and gradual slopes run down to a low 

 shore, which is encircled by a coral reef, interrupted at 

 intervals by convenient entrances. At Apia the reef extends 



