LIFE JN SAM OA. 227 



The Bay of Apia is divided by the outfall of two rivers into 

 three parts, the centre of which is the town of Apia, which con- 

 sists of a long straggling street on the beach, but with houses 

 on both sides. On higher ground is the Catholic Cathedral, and 

 bishop's and clergy houses, a capital hotel called the Pacific 

 Stores, the British Consulate establishment, and the Wesleyan 

 chapel. At Mulinunu there are the offices of the American 

 and German Consulates, a few stores, and a ship-building yard, 

 while at Matautu are the stores of Messrs. Godeffroy, some 

 minor stores, and a native village, which, charmingly ensconced 

 in a grove of the cocoa palms, and sheltered by breadfruit 

 trees, oranges, limes, and bananas, boasts the residence of the 

 native Governor of the district, Patioli, and until lately his 

 sister, the Samoan belle, Coe-o-le-Sasa o le Tuanasaga, the 

 richest and perhaps the prettiest girl in the islands, though it 

 should in justice be stated there is no lack of female beauty 

 among the Samoans. Coe is now married to the chief 

 Malietoa. 



One feels quickly at home in the Navigators' Islands, much 

 more so, in fact, than in any other group it has been my lot to 

 visit. The Samoans are gentle and friendly to a degree, and 

 as you pass along the street you are greeted with the kindly 

 expression, in the soft idiom of the native language, ' My love 

 to you !' After making the acquaintance of the estimable 

 Catholic bishop, and lunching Avith him on a substantial meal 

 of eggs and vegetables (it was a day of abstinence), I accom- 

 panied Monseigneur Elloz to the top of a hill behind the town, 

 where I inspected the Mission School and College, and was 

 astonished at the perfect order of the scholars, as well as their 

 marked proficiency in some very advanced stages of the art of 

 knowledge. If the view from Wai- Wai, in Savu Savu Bay, 

 was beautiful, what shall I say IIOAV shall I describe that gem 



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