DAHLIA 



DAHLIA 



959 



long distances where larger roots could not be profit- 

 ably used, owing to heavy transportation charges. 

 Green plants are mainly used to make up any defici- 

 ency in the field-crops, owing to unfavorable seasons, 

 or an unusual demand for certain varieties. 



Planting. There is diversity of opinion as to the 

 proper time to plant dahlias, but the writer has always 

 found it best to plant early, and would advise planting 

 large strong roots about two weeks before danger of 

 frost is over. This would be, in the vicinity of Phila- 

 delphia, about April 15; and as it requires from two to 

 three weeks for the plants to get up through the 

 ground, there will be no danger, while the plants will 

 bloom that much earlier. It is best, however, not to 

 plant small roots or green plants until danger of frost 

 is over in the vicinity of Philadelphia, about May 1 

 to 10, according to the season. A good rule to follow 

 everywhere would be to plant small roots and green 

 plants as soon as danger of frost is 

 past, and large roots about three 

 weeks earlier. 



Tillage. The first requisite of 

 successful garden cultivation is 

 thoroughly to stir the soil to con- 

 siderable depth and enrich it, if it 

 is not already rich, by broad-cast- 

 ing and plowing or spading in a 

 good coat of well-rotted manure. 

 Too much stress cannot be placed 

 upon the thorough preparation of 

 the land, as it not only allows the 

 roots to go down deep after the 

 moisture more readily durmg dry 

 weather, but affords good drainage 

 during excessive rains. Having 

 prepared the land as above, mark 

 out rows 4 feet apart and 6 to 8 

 inches deep, and plant the roots 

 from 18 inches to 3 feet apart in 

 the row, according as solid rows 

 or specimen plants are desired. 



In its early stage of develop- 

 ment, the dahlia grows very 

 rapidly, and should be kept 

 thoroughly tilled. But while deep 

 tillage is beneficial during its early stages of develop- 

 ment, it is almost fatal to the production of flowers 

 if practised after the plants come into bloom. There- 

 fore, when the plants begin to bloom, cease deep 

 tillage, and stir the soil to the depth of 1 to 3 inches 

 only, but stir it often, and never allow the surface to 

 become hard and baked. This will not only prevent 

 excessive evaporation of moisture and keep the under 

 soil cool and moist, but will also prevent the destruc- 

 tion of immense quantities of feeding-roots. 



As long as the roots supply more nourishment than is 

 needed to support the plant, both the plant and the 

 flowers increase in size and beauty; but as the supply 

 gradually becomes exhausted, the plants cease growing 

 and the flowers become much smaller. This condition 

 is what is generally called "bloomed out," but what is 

 really "starved out," and can easily be prevented if 

 the proper attention is given to the plants. As soon as 

 the flowers begin to grow smaller, broadcast around 

 each plant a small handful of pure bone-meal, and 

 nitrate of soda, in proportion of four parts bone to one 

 part soda, and carefully work it into the soil. 



Watering. This is a debatable subject, and, although 

 a judicious application of water during a severe dry 

 spell is very beneficial, yet in nine cases out of every 

 ten in which water is applied, a thorough stirring of 

 the surface soil would give better results. 



Many persons think Dahlias should be watered every 

 evening, and as soon as they are up begin watering 

 them daily unless it rains. This practice is very in- 

 jurious, as it causes a rapid but soft growth, and as 



1215. A semi-double form of dahlia. 



the soil is seldom stirred, the roots become so enfeebled 

 that they are unable to supply the needs of the plant; 

 as a consequence, but few buds are formed, and they 

 generally blast before developing into flowers. In other 

 cases, as the enthusiasm wears off, watering is stopped, 

 probably right at the beginning of a severe drought, 

 and the weak, pampered plants are fortunate to sur- 

 vive, much less bloom. 



If large, strong roots are planted and the soil is kept 

 thoroughly stirred, there will be little need of artificial 

 watering until after the plants come out in full bloom. 

 However, if it should become hot and dry after the 

 dahlias come into bloom, it would be very beneficial to 

 give them a thorough watering once each week or ten 

 days during the continuance of the drought. But care 

 should be taken to stir the soil to the depth of 1 to 

 2 inches the next day, carefully pulverizing it later in 

 order to break the natural capillarity by which the 

 moisture is evaporated. 



The best rule to follow is not 

 to allow the plants to suffer for 

 want of moisture, not to water 

 them except when they need it, 

 but to water them thoroughly 

 when necessary, and not to allow 

 excessive evaporation for want of 

 frequent stirring of the soil. 



Training. In planting the roots 

 or tubers, place them on their 

 sides with the eye as near the 

 bottom as possible, and cover 

 only 2 to 3 inches deep. As soon 

 as the shoots appear, remove all 

 but the strongest one, and pinch 

 out the center of that one as soon 

 as two or three pairs of leaves 

 have formed, thus forcing it to 

 branch below the level of the 

 ground. As the plants develop, 

 the soil is filled in gradually by sub- 

 sequent hoeings. By this method 

 the entire strength of the root 

 and the soil is concentrated on 

 the one shoot, causing it to grow 

 vigorously; while the pinching 

 back not only causes it to branch below the surface of 

 the soil, and thus brace it against all storms, but also 

 removes all of those imperfect, short-stemmed flowers 

 that appear on some varieties. If the plants are 

 pinched back low, as described, there is no danger of 

 the branches splitting down, as the soil around them 

 will hold them securely in place. However, when they 

 branch above ground and are inclined to split down, 

 drive a short stout stake near the stem and tie the 

 branches to it. These short stakes are not to hold the 

 plants up, but to prevent the branches splitting down 

 when the above directions have not been followed 

 closely. 



By this method it is possible to grow dahlia blooms 

 on stems from 18 inches to 2 feet long. It has always 

 been thought necessary to tie dahlias to stakes to pre- 

 vent them from being blown down by heavy winds. 

 The system of staking is not only unsightly during the 

 early stage of their growth, but is attended with con- 

 siderable labor and expense. Staking, however, is 

 unnecessary, if the directions already given are fol- 

 lowed, as the plants will branch out below the surface 

 of the ground, and the stems will become so heavy as 

 to resist the strongest winds. The plants are one- 

 third dwarfer, compact and regular in form, and pro- 

 duce much finer flowers on long stems well supplied 

 with buds and foliage. 



Storing the roots. As soon as the plants are killed 

 by frost, lift the roots, and, after removing all the soil 

 possible from them, allow them to dry in the air for a 

 few hours, when they should be stored in the cellar or 



