DELARBREA 



DELPHINIUM 



975 



larly cut; in D. spectabilis they are merely serrate. 

 The two plants are also immediately distinguished by 

 the black spots on the st. of D. spectabilis. 



N. TAYLOR, f 



DELAVAYA (after J. M. Delavay, French mission- 

 ary, who explored the flora of S. W. China). Sapin- 

 daceap. A tree from S. W. China, allied to Xanthoceras, 

 but differing chiefly in its 3-foliplate Ivs. and in the 

 much smaller fls. with a cupular disk. The only species, 

 D. toxocArpa, {Franch. (D. yunnanensis, Franch.), is a 

 small tree, to 25 ft. : Ifts. lanceolate, serrate, glabrous, 

 to 7 in. long: fls. about J^in. across, white: fr. a 

 2-3-lobed woody caps, with large brownish black seeds. 

 Reported as recently intro. but probably hardy in 

 warmer temperate regions only. ALFRED REHDER. 



DELPHINIUM (Greek, a dolphin, from the resem- 

 blance of the flower). Ranuncula^ese. LARKSPUR. A 

 group of beautiful hardy plants grown in borders for 

 their handsome spikes of flowers and stately stems of 

 foliage. They are of great value for cut-flower pur- 

 poses as the blooms keep well. 



Annual or perennial, erect, branching herbs: Ivs. 

 palmately lobed or divided: fls. large, irregular, in a 

 showy raceme or panicle; sepals 5, petal-like, the pos- 

 terior one prolonged into a spur; petals 2 or 4, small, 

 the posterior ones spurred, the lateral ones small, if 

 present; the few carpels always sessile, forming many- 

 seeded follicles. Full double forms are 

 very common in a number of the 

 species (compare Figs. 1232, 1233). A. 

 Gray, An attempt to distinguish be- 

 tween the American Delphiniums, Bot. 

 Gaz. 12:49-54, 1887. E. Huth, Mono- 

 graphic der Gattung Delphinium, in 

 Eng. Bot. Jahrb. 20 : 322-499, 1895. 

 There are about 60 species, native of 

 the north temperate zone, four of which are of 

 much greater popularity than the others: the 

 annual, D. Ajacis, and the perennials, D. grandi- 

 florum, D. hybridum and D. fornipsum. The last 

 three have been especially prolific in named garden 

 varieties. See page 3568. 



Some of the garden varieties of delphiniums 

 are as follows: King of Delphiniums, semi-double, 

 and Duke of Connaught, distinguished by a deep 

 intense blue and conspicuous white center of the 

 large singular flowers; Mme. Violet Geslin and 

 Julia, cornflower-blue varieties with white eye; 

 Amos Perry, a combination of rich rosy mauve, 

 flushed with sky-blue; Lizzie and Rev. J. J. Stubbs, 

 spikes of vivid azure around deep brown centers. 

 Combinations of sky-blue, pink and lavender are 

 striking characteristics of Diademe, Excelsior, 

 Grille, Hallgarten, Libelle, Minerva, Niederwald 

 and Seidenspinner, distinguished from each other 

 by white, brown or black centers. The petals of 

 Carmen are of deep gentian-blue and pink, sur- 

 rounding a brown center; those of Lamartine and 

 Musea, lavender-blue; and Felicite, sky-blue. Of the 

 perpetual-flowering Belladonna class, the trade offers the 

 following named hybrids: Capri, clear sky-blue; Moer- 

 heimeii, pure white; Nassau, Mr. Brunton and Persim- 

 mon variations in sky-blue and azure; while the light 

 graceful spikes of Semiplenum and Grandiflora show 

 a clear intense cornflower-blue. Perfect double-flower- 

 ing delphiniums, though very handsome, are shy seed- 

 ers and a small percentage come true to color and 

 variety. They do not seem to share in the great popu- 

 larity of the singles. Of the latter the old species D. 

 chinense, D. Davidii, and the rather hard to handle 

 but otherwise beautiful yellow D. Zalil, are well worth 

 cultivating. (R. Rothe.) 



Rocket and Candelabrum are names used to desig- 

 nate the forms of inflorescence in the two annual spe- 

 cies. The "Rocket" or spike-like form is more com- 



monly found in the Ajacis type, and the "Candela- 

 brum," with a number of short spike-like heads of 

 different heights, is found more often in Consoh'da. 



Delphiniums thrive in any good garden soil, but are 

 improved by a deep, rich sandy loam, exposed to the 

 sun. Deep preparation of the soil is very important. 

 The annuals are propagated from seed, which are very 

 slow in germinating. In the warmer latitudes they may 

 be sown in early fall and will then produce flowers early 

 the next season; or they may be started indoors. 



The perennials, may be propa- 

 gated: (1) By root-division in the 

 fall or spring. The large strong- 

 growing species may be divided 

 into a number of plants after 

 growing in the flower-bed for sev- 

 eral years. (2) By cuttings, about 

 which J. B. Keller says: "Take a 

 few cuttings from each plant in 

 early spring, when growth is 

 about 3 or 4 inches long, or else 

 use the second growth, which has 

 come after the flower-stems have 

 been removed. Cuttings root 

 readily in a shaded frame, no bot- 

 tom heat being required, but an 

 occasional sprinkling during dry 

 and hot weather is neces- 

 sary. When rooted they 

 are treated like seed- 

 lings." (3) By seeds, 

 started in the green- 

 house or hotbed in 

 March or even earlier. 

 The young seedlings 

 should be given plenty 

 of room by transplant- 

 ing as they grow, and 

 may be set in the open 

 garden by June. If 

 started thus early they 

 flower the first autumn. 

 The seed may be planted 

 in late spring or sum- 

 mer, care being taken 

 to water well during dry 

 weather, and flowers 

 will come the next sum- 

 ,mer. To get the best 

 results, the perennials 

 should be transplanted 

 every 2 or 3 years. Two 

 good crops of blossoms 

 may be secured in one 

 season by cutting away 

 the flower-stems of the 

 first crop as soon as the 

 flowers have faded; of 

 course no seeds will be produced in this way. 



In most climates where they are grown the roots 

 of the perennials are left unprotected, in the open 

 garden, during the winter. This plan can be improved 

 by giving the bed or border a good dressing of barn- 

 yard manure about the time the ground begins to 

 freeze in the fall. This will greatly enrich the soil 

 and also protect the underground buds during winter. 

 A much better show of flowers will be the result. 

 Because of their ability to use much fertility, it is 

 well to spade in the manure instead of removing it 

 in the spring. A top-dressing of manure near the plants 

 in midsummer is used to aid in forcing the "fall" or 

 second crop of flowers. This dressing conserves the soil- 

 moisture, prevents weeds, and adds plant-food. Such 

 applications of manure will make the plants more vig- 

 orous throughout. They will flower more profusely and, 

 if desired, the roots can be divided much more freely. 



1231. Delphinium Ajacis. 



