DIPHYSA 



DIPLADENIA 



1017 



DIPHYSA (two bladders, because of the structure of 

 the pod). Leguminosx. Shrubs or trees, usually glandu- 

 lar, with odd-pinnate Ivs. and papilionaceous fls., of 

 about 10 or 12 species in Mex., Cent. Amer., to Vene- 

 zuela, rarely seen in cult, abroad in warmhouses: 

 calyx with 5 unlike teeth, the 2 upper short; standard 

 of the corolla orbicular, clawed, with 2 callosities 

 inside; wings obovate or oblong or nearly lanceolate; 

 keel as long as the wings or somewhat longer: fr. a 

 stipitate more or less inflated pod : fls. yellow, in short 

 racemes or fascicles. D. carthagenensis, Jacq., is a 

 shrub or small unarmed tree, with 2-3-fld. axillary 

 peduncles, and about 5 pairs of Ifts. D. floribunda, 

 Peyr., has been offered in S. Calif.: much-branching 

 shrub: Ivs. alternate; Ifts. 7-13, elliptic or broad-oblong, 

 the mid-nerve ending in a mucro: fls. yellow, in short 

 secund racemes; standard strongly reflexed, Kin. 

 broad. S. Mex. L, jj. 3. 



DIPIDAX (double fountain, from the pair of nectaries 

 at the base of the perianth-segms.). Liliacese. Two 

 species in S. Afr., with tunicated corms, simple sts. 

 and small whitish more or less tinted fls. in spikes, of 

 little horticultural importance: perianth deciduous, 

 polyphyllous; stamens 6, included; ovary sessile, 3- 

 celled and 3-lobed, many-ovuled; styles 3, awl-shaped: 

 fr. a turbinate 3-valved caps. D. ciliata, Baker. St. 

 6-12 in.: Ivs. usually 3, ciliate, the lower 4-6 in. long 

 and lanceolate-acuminate and the upper much shorter 

 and amplexicaul: spike 2-6 in. long, densely many-fid.; 

 fls. whitish more or less tinged red: there are several 

 botanical vars., differing in Ivs., number and color of 

 fls. D. triquetra, Baker. St. 12-18 in.: Ivs. 3, not ciliate, 

 the lowest at base of st. and the upper near the spike 

 (which is 1-6 in. long) : fls. with numerous brown veins 

 and 2 purple nectar-spots. B.M. 558 (as Melanthium 

 triquetrum). The species are treated as greenhouse 

 perennials. 



DiPLACUS: Mimulus. 



DIPLADENIA (Greek, double gland, referring to the 

 two glands at base of ovary, which distinguish this 

 genus from Echites). Apocynaceae. A charming genus 

 of greenhouse twiners (sometimes erect), mostly from 

 Brazil. 



Flowers large, showy, more or less funnel-shaped, 

 having a remarkable range of color, rarely white or 

 dark red, but especially rich in rosy shades and with 

 throats often brilliantly colored with yellow; the buds, 

 also, are charming; calyx 5-parted, the lobes lanceo- 

 late, with glands or scales in the inside; corolla without 

 scales at the throat, the 5 lobes spreading, twisted in 

 the bud; stamens 5, affixed in the top of the tube, 

 included, the acuminate anthers connivent around the 

 5-lobed stigma; disk of 2 fleshy scales, alternating with 

 the 2 distinct ovaries: fr. of 2 terete more or less spread- 

 ing f ollicles. 

 Species 30-40, in 

 Trop. S. Amer., 

 woody (rarely 

 herbaceous) and 

 mostly at first 

 erect but becom- 

 ing scandent, the 

 Ivs. mostly op- 

 posite and entire 

 and usually with 

 bristles or glands 

 at base; fls. usu- 

 ally in terminal 

 or axillary ra- 

 cemes. The 

 genus is fully as 

 interesting as 

 Allamanda, 

 1274. Dipladenia atropurpurea. (XK) which belongs to 



another tribe of the same family. Other allied genera 

 of garden interest are Echites, Odontadenia, Mandevilla 

 and Urechites. Some species are naturally erect bushes, 

 at least when young, and many can be trained to the 

 bush form. The group is a most tempting one to the 

 hybridizer. Many names appear in European cata- 

 logues, but they are confused. Very many pictures are 

 found in the European horticultural periodicals. 



Of the twining glasshouse flowering subjects, dipla- 

 denias are amongst the best and ought to be in all col- 

 lections of greenhouse plants. An erroneous idea is 

 held by many that it is necessary to have a very high 

 temperature to grow these plants successfully. This, 

 however, is not the case. Except when started into 

 active growth in the early spring, they do better in 

 an intermediate temperature. Dipladenias have been 

 known to live, and thrive well, after having been sub- 

 jected to 7 of frost. A good time of the year to 

 secure cuttings of dipladenias is about February 1. At 

 that time they show signs of starting into growth and 

 the weak wood should all be pruned back to the normal 

 thickness of the stem. The thickest part of these prun- 

 ings make good cuttings. Take a piece with two 

 leaves attached, with about an inch of the stem under 

 the leaves. Pot them singly in small pots, half filled 

 with equal parts osmundine, broken up rather fine, 

 sand, and charcoal. Fill the upper part of the pot with 

 sand. Place the pots in a tight propagating bed, in a 

 night-temperature of 70. Allow, the temperature to 

 run up to 80 or more by day, but be sure and admit 

 air several times during the day by opening up the 

 case the plants are in for a few minutes. The cuttings 

 will have the small pots filled with roots in about a 

 month, when they may be shifted into larger pots. From 

 now on, use for potting equal parts of osmundine, the 

 fiber of loam out of which all the fine part has been 

 shaken, sphagnum moss, sand and charcoal. When the 

 plants reach a 6-inch pot, a sixth part of sheep-manure 

 may be added and a sprinkling of chicken-bone. It is 

 a good plan, provided one has a good sheltered border 

 with a southern aspect, to plant small plants of dipla- 

 denia outdoors from June until the middle of Septem- 

 ber. It is astonishing how vigorously they start into 

 growth and flower when potted after this treatment. 

 Fifty-five degrees is a good night temperature to grow 

 dipladenias in when possible. During the summer, if 

 grown indoors, admit all the air that can be admitted 

 day and night. They will stand the full sun under glass, 

 but they do slightly better under a very light shade 

 during the hotter part of the day, when the sun is 

 shining. When the pots are filled with roots, and it is 

 desired that they should remain in that pot for the 

 rest of the season, feed with manure-water, a handful 

 of cow-manure to a two-and-a-half-gallon watering- 

 pot. The same amount to an equal quantity of water 

 if a fertilizer such as "Clays" is used, is sufficient. 

 Horse urine may 'also be used for a change, a 3-inch 

 potful to two and one-half gallons of water. Be sure 

 to water three times in between with clean water. 

 Dipladenias show signs of completing their growth 

 toward the end of November, at which time water 

 should be gradually withheld, but never so as to allow 

 the wood to shrivel. They may be treated in this man- 

 ner until the end of January, when, as stated above, 

 they will show signs of starting the season's growth. 

 At this season they should have a general overhauling. 

 Large plants should be turned out of their pots, and the 

 loose dirt all washed out of them with a hose with a 

 gentle pressure on it; and if possible repot in the same 

 size of pot. After disturbing the roots in this manner, 

 they are better to be placed for a few weeks in a tem- 

 perature of not less than 65. When they have gripped 

 the new soil, they do better in 55 night temperature. 

 Give each break a piece of thread attached from the 

 plant to the roof to climb on until they set flower. A 

 few breaks, near the highest part of the plant, will 



