1082 



DUVALIA 



DWARFING 



lanceolate to ovate, folded longitudinally backward; 

 corona double, from near the top of the staminal col- 

 umn, the outer one flat and entire and angled, the inner 

 one with turgid more or less pointed lobes; stamens 

 affixed in the base of the corolla, united into a tube 

 around the ovary: fr. erect smooth follicles. Cult, of 

 Stapelia and similar succulents. The species are 

 essentially fancier's plants and apparently not in the 

 trade. 



DUVERNOIA (J. G. Duvernoy, pupil of Tourne- 

 fort, or G. L. Duvernoy, of Strassburg, writer on 

 natural history). Acanthacese. By some authors united 

 with Adhatoda, which genus is by some included in 

 Justicia. The genus comprises 15 or more herbs or 

 shrubs: fls. single or in short spikes; calyx short, 4- 

 toothed, the back lobe toothed or parted; corolla-tube 

 short; limb labiate, the upper lip helmet-shaped and 

 2-toothed, the lower lip flat. The species seem not to be 

 in the trade, although D. Dewevrei, DeWild, has been 

 cult, in Belgium: it is a tufted herb, about 2 ft. high: 

 Ivs. oblong, petiolate: fls. paniculate; upper lip of corolla 

 white with red stripes and the lower greenish white; 

 corolla about J^in. long. Congo. 



DWARFING. Dwarf plants are those that never 

 attain the height or size of the usual or representative 

 individuals of the species. Some dwarfs are "natural," 

 being represented by varieties of prevailingly small 

 size; and these varieties usually reproduce more or less 

 true from seed or cuttings. Thus there are dwarf 

 petunias, lobelias, asters, cannas, peas, beans. Such 

 dwarfing comes within the field of breeding. 



The "artificial" dwarfs are produced by more or less 

 arbitrary manipulation, as by grafting on stocks of 

 small growth, heading-in the top or the root or both, 

 by confining the roots, by withholding food and 

 water, and by various forms of contortion and con- 

 striction. 



Plants are dwarfed to keep them within bounds in 

 small areas, to increase flower-bearing and fruit-bear- 

 ing in proportion to the size of the subject, to bring 

 all parts within reach and control, to express the skill 

 and satisfy the conceit of the gardener, and to extend 

 the range of interesting plant forms; and plants may be 

 adapted to adverse soils or conditions by grafting on 

 hardy or more reliable roots that may chance to have 

 a dwarfing tendency. Dwarf plants are very useful 

 in flower-gardens and in landscape work. The pic- 

 turesque dwarfs of the Japanese type are amongst the 

 most curious of plant forms. 



The Japanese practice of dwarfing. Figs. 1367, 1368. 



The art of dwarfing trees has been long practised 

 among the Japanese gardeners. Some trees are more 

 adapted for this purpose than others. The following 

 have been considered to be most suitable: 



Chamaecyparis obtusa. 

 Pinus pentaphylla. 

 Pinus parviflora. 

 Pinus Thunbergii. 

 Pinus densiflora. 

 Larix leptolepis. 

 Juniperus rigida. 

 Juniperus chinensis var. 



cumbens. 



Podocarpus chinensis. 

 Podocarpus Nageia. 

 Tsuga Sieboldii. 

 Tsuga diversifolia. 

 Cryptomeria japonica. 

 Acer palmatum. 

 Various species of Japanese 

 fruit trees, etc. 



Acer trifidum. 

 Styrax japonica. 

 Lagerstrcemia indica. 

 Punica Granatum. 

 Trachycarpus excelsa. 

 Rhapis flabelliformis. 

 Rhapis hutnilis. 

 pro- Zelkowa acuminata. 

 Millettia japonica. 

 Wistaria floribunda. 

 Wistaria brachybotrys. 

 Prunus Mume. 

 Evonymus alata. 

 Cycas revoluta. 



flowering cherries, ivies, bamboos, 



1367. Japanese dwarf tree. 



There are two styles hi which the "bonsai" is pre- 

 sented, one is the planting of one or more tiny trees of 

 picturesque form in an artistic shallow pot; and the 

 other is the representing of a part of a miniature garden 

 or forest embracing trees, shrubs, grasses, mosses, rocks, 

 and ponds. The former is simply an improved or 

 modified potted plant, 

 whereas the latter exhibits 

 an imaginary scene, so 

 that one might feel by 

 glancing upon the pot in 

 a little Japanese chamber 

 as if he were at that mo- 

 ment strolling in such a 

 garden or wandering with- 

 in forest. A little piece of 

 stone gives an idea of Mt. 

 Fuji, and a drop of water 

 the surface of the Japan 

 Sea. We often suspect 

 the tree, covered with 

 mossed bark, of not more than Yi foot in height, 

 would reach the cloud; or it might suggest a wintry 

 landscape brought in amidst scorching summer days 

 to release a man from heat. 



The success in raising a valuable "bonsai" depends 

 entirely on the skill of dwarfing the trees, and it requires 

 a long experience. Remember always what the home 

 of the plant was, and treat it according to its habitat. 

 In other words, climate, soil, environment, nourish- 

 ment, and all other circumstances of its original state 

 should accompany the tree; and the degree of humidity, 

 both in the air and ground, is of prime importance 

 in the dwarfing process. Some have the erroneous 

 notion that the dwarfing is accomplished merely by 

 bending the tree unnaturally. The roots are confined 

 to check growth, without making other alteration. 

 The shape and size of the branches or leaves are affected 

 by the firmness of the earth, the way of watering, the 

 kinds of fertilizer, and the degree of sunshine. Between 

 the leaves there should be ample air and frequent 

 sunshine. Some plants need only slight moisture, and 

 others much. Too wet is worse than too dry. Many 

 are thoughtless in giving water, not considering the 

 condition of the soil. Judicious watering is one of the 

 first requisites to success. For example, after being 

 placed on balconies or terraces in the daytime, the 

 potted plants should be exposed outdoors during the 

 night, if not stormy. Japanese gardeners use many 

 different fertilizers in accordance with the time of 

 growth, kind of plant, and purposes (i.e., whether for 

 branches or leaves, for flowers or fruits), some of them 

 being: oil-cake, bone-meal, tankage, clam-shells, barn- 

 manures, night-soil, wine 

 lees, tea dregs, cow's 

 milk, rice- bran, fish 



refuse, iron-rust, and T^/l^JCfe' ' & ft.F: j 



others. 



Plants both of "bon- 

 and "hachiuye" 



Before entering into a discussion of dwarfed trees, 

 one should have a clear understanding between the 

 "bonsai" or artistic plant and the "hachiuye" or ordin- 

 ary potted plant. 



dwarfs should be re- 

 potted every two or three years, in 

 order to destroy the old fibrous roots, 

 and to give a chance for new ones. 

 Otherwise, trees are deprived from 

 taking any nourishment, and will 

 soon die. This practice is to be done 

 in February or March, when the aim 

 of dwarfing is completed; whereas the 1368. Training a 

 pruning is to be between April and 

 June, to secure more or even larger flowers. 



Pine. This is one of the most difficult plants to be 

 treated as a dwarfed tree, although it will hardly 

 result in failure, if taken direct from the mountain or 

 seashore while new young needles are steadily growing. 

 Pines that have suffered through various difficult 



