FORCING 



FORCING 



1259 



be controlled by fumigating with tobacco. The black 

 aphis usually occurs in patches and can be destroyed 

 by applying strong solutions of tobacco or soap. 



Nematodes (eel-worms) often become very destruc- 

 tive to cucumbers. As they work entirely on the roots, 

 their presence is indicated by a weak and stunted 

 growth of the vines. There is no cure for a vine once 

 attacked. Sterilizing the infested soil with steam is the 

 usual method of eradicating them. It is not safe to set 

 plants in an infested soil which has not been sterilized. 



Cucumber wilt is a bacterial trouble which often 

 destroys a crop in a few days. There are no satisfac- 

 tory means of combating it when it becomes estab- 

 lished. It is most likely to occur on plants which are 

 weakened in some other way, as by having too much 

 water applied or too little heat. Plants which are kept 

 growing vigorously are seldom attacked by the wilt. 



The downy mildew is very partial to cucumbers 

 and often does serious damage. Cold draughts should 

 be avoided as much as possible. Frequent spraying 

 with bordeaux will keep the trouble in check. Another 

 less common but sometimes serious cucumber dis- 

 ease is anthracnose. Bordeaux is the remedy for this 

 disease. Root rot of cucumbers is of occasional occur- 

 rence and may be prevented by sterilizing the soil 

 with steam. 



Grading and packing cucumbers. 



In sorting cucumbers for market they are made 

 into at least two grades. The culls are seldom placed 

 on the market. About the same kinds of packages 

 are used in which to pack cucumbers as are used 

 for lettuce. They vary in size from the sugar barrel 

 to the small basket holding from two to two and 

 one-half dozen specimens. When handled in winter 

 they are usually packed in paper-lined boxes or 

 baskets. 



Forcing of tomatoes. Fig. 1549. 



Tomatoes are forced under glass at all seasons of 

 the year except during the time they are ripening most 

 freely in the field. The largest area of glass is devoted 

 to this crop in the spring and early summer. There is 

 also quite a large area grown during the fall and early 

 winter. Only a very few growers force tomatoes in 

 the midwinter months. 



Varieties. 



There is a difference of opinion among growers as 

 to which varieties are best for forcing. In a general 

 way it may be said that for the fall crop the varieties 

 having medium to small fruits are most desirable. 

 Some growers also prefer these kinds for the spring 

 and early summer crop. Other growers like the large 

 fruiting sorts, such as the Stone and Globe for the 

 summer crop. Some markets prefer pink or purple 

 varieties and others red sorts. 



Some of the requirements of a good forcing variety 

 are: prolificacy, smoothness in form, meatiness and 

 good flavor. If the fruit is to be shipped it should not 

 be too tender of skin. Some varieties crack more 

 readily than others and those that are inclined to crack 

 should be avoided. Other qualities not lacking, those 

 kinds which are most resistant to disease are to be 

 preferred. Some varieties need less attention in the 

 matter of hand pollinating than others. This is a 

 desirable character and should be given consideration 

 when selecting a variety for forcing purposes. 



Cultural methods. 



For the fall crop the seeds should be sown in June. 

 The best results are secured from this crop when the 

 fruit is all set and well grown before cold weather 

 begins. The crop should begin ripening about the time 

 killing frosts occur and the bulk of the crop should be 

 off by the first of January. 



For the spring and early summer crop the seed should 

 be sown in time so that the plants will be ready to set 

 in the permanent beds by the first of March. If a 

 temperature of 60 can be maintained at night, the 

 plants can be grown in two months from the time of 

 the sowing of the seed. Plants set in the permanent 

 places the first of March should ripen fruit about the 

 first of June and should be through fruiting by the 

 middle of August or a little before. 



The care of the seedling plants is about the same 

 for the fall and spring crops, except that owing to the 

 difference in the amount of sunshine they can be 



grown more quickly 

 and easily in summer 

 than in winter. For 

 either crop the seeds 

 are sown thickly in 

 flats or beds and in 

 rows about 2 inches 

 apart. As soon as 

 they are sown the 

 seeds should be 

 covered with glass, 

 paper or burlap to 

 keep the surface of 

 i>v the soil moist. When 

 ') large enough to 

 handle, the seedlings 

 should be pricked off 

 into flats or beds, spacing 

 the plants 2 inches apart 

 each way. Before they 

 begin to crowd, they 

 should be transplanted 

 again, this time into 2- 

 inch pots. A third hand- 

 ling should be made in 

 about three weeks when 

 the plants should be trans- 

 ferred to 4- or 5-inch pots. 

 From these pots they 

 should be transplanted to 

 the permanent beds. 



A. temperature of 60 

 or 65 should be main- 

 tained in the plant house 

 at night and at least 10 

 higher on bright days. 

 Careful attention to water- 

 ing and ventilating is very 

 important. Plants which 

 are given too much water 

 or which grow in a house 

 in which the ventilators 

 are seldom open will be 

 readily attacked by dis- 

 eases. Plants which are 

 properly grown are dis- 

 ease-resistant to a con- 

 siderable extent. 



The spacing of tomato 

 plants which is practised by different forcers is much 

 more nearly alike than is the case with cucumbers. 

 The plants are seldom set closer than 1J^ feet nor 

 farther apart than 4 feet. Two by 2 feet or 1J^ by 

 3 feet are good distances. Nearly all tomatoes are 

 trained upright and usually to one stem. When two 

 stems are used, the tops are trained apart a foot or 

 more, making the plant form the shape of a partly 

 opened fan. Strings run from the foot of the vines 

 to wires run above the rows are the usual means of 

 support. By twisting the vines around the support- 

 ing strings, only a small amount of tying will be neces- 

 sary. All laterals or side branches should be removed 

 when small if the plants are trained to one stem. 

 If they are to be trained to two stems, the lowest 



1549. Strand of winter 

 tomatoes. 



