GARDENIA 



GARDENIA 



1315 



blooms from May to September in the South, where it 

 is often used for hedges, and is hardy as far north as 

 Virginia. In the middle of last century the Cape 

 jasmine was considered one of the finest stove shrubs 

 in cultivation, but with the waning popularity of camel- 

 lias the doom of the Cape jasmine as a conservatory 

 plant was sealed. The camellia has a greater range of 

 color, and has had hundreds of varieties, while its 

 scented rival has had barely a dozen. The flowers of 

 the Cape jasmine have never been so perfectly regular 

 as those of a camellia, and the plants are very subject to 

 insect enemies. Their bloom is successional rather than 

 close, and large plants are therefore not so showy as 

 camellias. They are considerably grown abroad for 

 cut-flowers in early spring, young plants a season or 

 two old being used for best results. The variety with 

 variegated foliage is dwarfer and weaker-growing. The 

 true botanical name of the Cape jasmine is G. jasmin- 

 aides, a name almost never used in the trade. "Cape 

 jasmine" itself is one of the most remarkable cases of 

 the vitality of an erroneous popular name. The single- 

 flowered form was introduced much later than the 

 double, and has always been less popular. The earliest 

 picture of a living plant with single flowers was pub- 

 lished in 1820 in B. R. 449. Cape jasmines are also 

 handled by importers of Japanese plants, who some- 

 times offer seeds also. G. lucida was probably intro- 

 duced by Reasoner, and G. Rothmannia by Franceschi, 

 who reports that it is probably not now (1914) in 

 cultivation. For the true jasmines (which belong to 

 the olive family, and are often trailing plants), see 

 Jasminum. 



Culture. The Cape jasmine of today, Gardenia 

 Veitchii, was introduced by the well-known English 

 firm of Jas. Veitch & Son. This new variety has ful- 

 filled the long-desired want, because it is really a winter- 

 flowering variety, while the old species Gardenia jas- 

 minoides or G. fiorida could not be made to flower 

 during the early and midwinter when actually most 

 valuable, hence the almost total abandonment of that 

 old variety for cut-flower purposes. This new type 

 has become one of the most popular florist flowers, 

 although it is one of the most difficult plants to handle. 

 The young plants are raised from cuttings in the early 

 winter. Care must be taken to propagate only from 

 thoroughly healthy plants. Three- to four-eye cuttings 

 should be put into clean, sharp sand with a minimum 

 bottom heat of 70 and a maximum of 85. The atmo- 

 sphere should be rather close in the propagating-house 

 until after the cuttings begin to root, then some air 

 should be admitted. The cutting-bench must be kept 

 shaded from the sun and frequent syringing is absolutely 

 necessary. When fully rooted in the sand, they are 

 potted into 2-inch pots in well-prepared soil of four 

 parts decomposed sod loam, one part of well-rotted old 

 cow-manure and one part sand. The soil should be 

 well screened. Potting firmly is essential, and not too 

 much room should be left for water. A gentle bottom 

 heat for these young plants is highly beneficial. When 

 the sun begins to get higher and the days lengthen, a 

 little fresh air during the middle of the day is invigora- 

 ting for the young plants, but the night temperature 

 should never go below 65. The plants must be kept 

 growing constantly and should be repotted as soon as 

 they have filled their pots with roots. The months of 

 May and June are the best time to plant gardenias 

 into benches or solid beds. The best soil has been 

 found to be well-rotted turf or sod, a pliable loam and 

 well-rotted cow-manure well mixed, three parts of 

 loam to one of manure. Should the soil be rather 

 stiff or of a heavy texture, a portion of sand may be 

 added. The benches should be 4 to 5 inches deep and 

 have sufficient openings or cracks for drainage. Where 

 very thin turf or sod can be had, the bench should be 

 lined with this, or if not practicable, then a layer of 

 sphagnum moss so as to cover the bottom of the 



bench. On top of this, a liberal sprinkling of pieces 

 of charcoal will tend to keep the soil sweet. A small 

 quantity of ground bone may be sprinkled over the 

 soil after it is all spread on the benches ready for 

 planting. Care must be taken that all balls are well 

 softened and dissolved when planting so that there 

 will be an amalgamation of the new soil and the soil 

 of the ball. Firm planting and immediate watering 

 are of the highest importance and frequent syringing 

 after planting. Shading is not necessary, providing 

 frequent syringing is given. Keep the soil moist but 

 never wet. It is well to keep the house rather close 

 for a few days, after which air can be given freely. 

 Gardenia Veitchii can stand any amount of heat, and 

 there is no danger of burning or scorching until the foli- 

 age begins to get warm. When thermometer goes 

 above 90 to 95 more air must be given. The plants 

 must now make their growth and if buds appear 

 they must be pinched out. Keep pinching out buds 

 and small side shoots until the latter part of September 

 when buds may be allowed to set upon the stronger 

 shoots. A strong healthy plant can carry four to six 

 such flowering shoots. After buds begin to set and 

 sometimes even before, bottom shoots begin to come. 

 These are the second growth and make for a second 

 crop of flowers as well as for propagating the young 

 plants for the next season. Plants are seldom kept 

 over the second year although it can be done success- 

 fully. Young plants are decidedly the most profitable. 

 When the plants are well set with buds, in October 

 and November, and the roots appear on the surface, a 

 very light mulch of cow-manure is beneficial as it will 

 assist to develop the flowers. A night temperature of 

 65 to 68 is best, while during the day it may range 

 from 70 to 90. Good hard syringing will keep down 

 the pests which are fond of this plant, especially the 

 mealy-bug. The flowers should be cut before the 

 center petals have fully expanded and the longer the 

 stem the more valuable the flower. (H. A. Siebrecht.) 



A. Corolla-tube cylindrical. 



B. Calyx with 5 long teeth. 

 c. Ribs on the calyx. 



jasminoides, Ellis (G. fldrida, Linn. G. radlcans, 

 Thunb.). CAPE JASMINE. Variable, very small shrub, 

 unarmed, the st. sometimes rooting: Ivs. lanceolate, 

 sometimes variegated : fls. white, solitary, very fragrant, 

 waxy. For pictures of double forms, see B.M. 1842 

 and 2627, and B.R. 73; single, B.R. 449 and B.M. 

 3349; normal and variegated foliage, R.H. 1864, p. 30. 

 China. Var. Fortuniana, Lindl. (G. Fortunei, Hort.). 

 B.R. 32:43. F.S. 2:177. R.B. 2.3:241. In 1893 was 

 advertised G. camelliaeflora in addition to G. radicans, 

 G. fldrida and vars. major and majestica. G. sinensis 

 grandiflbra of Berger's catalogue perhaps belongs here. 

 Presumably the G. Veitchii of the gardens belongs here. 



cc. Ribs not present. 



lucida, Roxbg. Buds resinous: Ivs. oblong; stipules 

 annular, variously divided at the mouth, unequally 

 lobed: fls. stalked, fragrant, white but ultimately 

 turning yellow, 1-2 ^ in. across. India, Burma, Luzon. 

 The calyx-teeth are not decurrent, as in the Cape 

 jasmine, and thus the calyx does not have the ribbed 

 look. 



BB. Calyx tubular, with 5 very short teeth. 



amdbna, Sims. Differs from all here described in hav- 

 ing numerous strong spines nearly J^in. long, which are 

 axillary: Ivs. oval, acute, short-stalked: fls. subtermi- 

 nal; corolla-tube 1 in. long, longer than the lobes, which 

 are 6, obovate, white, with margins incurved enough to 

 show the rosy back. India or China. 



BBB. Calyx spathe-like. 



Thunbergia, Linn. f. Lvs. broadly elliptic, acute, 

 with pairs of glands along the midribs: fls. 3 in. across, 



