HEDGES 



HEDGES 



1439 



(Gleditsia triacanthos) , with many warm admirers and 

 advocates. The hawthorn of Europe (Cratsegus 

 Oxyacantha) may not be planted in this country with 

 much chance of success, owing to fungous enemies. 



Crateegus Crus-galli is fairly satisfactory, but is not 

 likely to make a tight hedge close to the ground. Other 

 large thorny shrubs also fail in important particulars. 



A perfect thorn hedge requires unremitting care, 

 and must conform to an established rule, the most 

 important being entire freedom from weeds and a 

 systematic pruning. The preparation of the soil for a 

 hedge consists of thoroughly plowing and cultivating 

 an area 6 feet wide and the length the hedge is proposed 

 to extend; or else to dig a trench 2 feet deep and 2 or 

 3 feet wide, and fill it with good top-soil thoroughly 

 enriched. If this space should be fertilized and cropped 

 the year previous growth will be greatly accelerated. 



Deciduous plants must have the tops well shortened, 

 and the root-tips of all plants should be given a clean 

 cut, as they are planted. The plants should be set in a 

 single row as close together as they can be set. For 

 hedges a foot high or less, the plants should not be 

 over 4 inches apart. For hedges 3 or 4 feet high, the 

 plants should be 6 inches to a foot apart. 



The double row, as formerly advised by some growers, 

 is now practically obsolete and justly so, being difficult 

 to cultivate and preserve free from weeds. The single 

 row gives the plants a chance to be somewhat balanced, 

 as the two opposite sides will have nearly equal freedom 

 to develop. 



A trench or furrow is opened through the center 

 of the cultivated strip of a sufficient depth to admit the 

 roots without bending. In setting, the soil must be 

 made firm with the aid of a rammer, a practice unex- 

 celled for aiding growth, and, indeed, preserving plant- 

 life after removal. Pruning is simply an annual neces- 

 sity from the first, excepting when the hedge is intended 

 to be plashed, and even in such cases, after the laying 

 process, pruning must never be omitted during summer. 

 This work is greatly accelerated and consequently 

 cheapened by shearing when the plants are young and 

 tender, say during the month* of July. 



As to the best outline, a plain triangle, or what may 

 be more sightly, the curvilinear or Gothic arch, is desir- 

 able, and a flat top is to be discouraged, as a body of 

 snow lodged on it invariably injures the symmetry and 

 beauty of any hedge. Another advantage of the trian- 

 gular and Gothic arch types is that the sun can better 

 reach the bottom of such hedges and keep them cov- 

 ered with foliage down to the ground. A rectangular 

 hedge is liable to have bare spots at the base, while a 

 hedge wider at the middle or top than at the bottom, 

 is almost sure to be without foliage near the ground 



Material available for defensive hedges has already 

 been discussed. For ornamental hedges, there are a 

 large number of plants available, both deciduous and 

 evergreen. Of these the half-evergreen California 

 privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) is probably more 

 largely used than anything else, and in the eastern 

 United States possibly more largely used than all other 

 material combined. Its advantage over its competitors 

 is its low first cost, and its responsiveness to pruning 

 and training. These are offset by its liability to kill 

 to the ground every few years, even toward the South. 

 Probably the best hedge plant, all things considered, 

 is Thunberg's barberry (Berberis Thunbergii). 



Of the evergreen hedges, the arbor- vitse (Thuya 

 occidentalis) is one of the most widely adaptable and 

 deservedly popular. Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) 

 makes one of the handsomest but it succeeds in a com- 

 paratively restricted area. Its reputation as a slow 

 grower should not prevent the box being more largely 

 planted than it is. The Monterey cypress is much 

 used as a hedge in California (Fig. 1790). There 

 are many other evergreens that may be used to ad- 

 vantage. 



Among the deciduous flowering plants are a great 

 many that are desirable. A discussion of a few of these 

 is included in the list that follows. 



Where room at all permits, mass plantings or even 

 untrimmed tree rows are better than a high hedge 

 for barriers and screens. Plants with variegated or 

 unusually colored foliage should be avoided for hedges. 



The most serious annoyance to the hedge-grower is 

 the presence of unwelcome woody vines, such as poison 

 ivy (Rhus Toxicodendron), Japan evergreen honey- 

 suckle (Lonicera japonica), and so on, and the only 

 remedy is persistently to remove them by hand as 

 soon as discovered. The attacks of insects may be 

 treated similarly to those which injure other trees and 

 shrubs. 



Material especially adaptable for hedges. 



Abelia grandiflora. Broad-leaved evergreen. Suita- 

 ble for hedges up to 4 feet. Not hardy north of Wash- 

 ington and St. Louis. 



Acer campestre. Deciduous. Adapted for hedges 

 from 4 to 10 feet high in the northern half of the 

 United States. 



Azalea (Rhododendron) amcena. Evergreen. Good 

 for hedges up to 2 feet. Good as far north as New 

 York, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, and St. Louis. Attrac- 

 tive foliage and showy flowers. 



Berberis Thunbergii. Deciduous, thorny, slow-grow- 

 ing. Cannot be relied on for hedges over 4 feet high. 

 Adapted to all sections of the United States, except 

 the non-irrigated arid regions. Responds to pruning, 

 but makes a more attractive hedge when shears are 

 not used. Naturally makes a tight bottom. Foliage 

 small and most attractive. Bears annual crops of 

 scarlet berries that hang on all winter, even in the 

 South. Will grow within reach of salt-water spray. 

 The best of the deciduous ornamental hedge plants, 

 and has no superior in any class. 



Berberis vulgaris. Deciduous, thorny. Useful for 

 hedges from 3 to 6 feet high. Adapted to the northern 

 half of the United States. Not so tight and compact 

 as the foregoing. Bears berries that hang on half the 

 winter. There is also a purple-leaved variety. 



Buxus sempervirens (boxwood; tree box). The box 

 of colonial gardens. Evergreen; slow-growing; adapted 

 for hedges up to 20 feet. Thrives as far north as central 

 New York, southern Ohio, and Missouri. Stands 

 shearing well. Probably the best evergreen hedge- 

 plant in the regions in which it grows. 



Buxus suffruticosa (dwarf box) . Evergreen. Suitable 

 for use where a small hedge of the last-mentioned could 

 be used. 



Carpinus caroliniana (hornbeam). Deciduous. Good 

 for hedges up to 10 feet. Makes a dense, strong hedge. 

 Suitable for use as far south as Virginia and Kentucky. 



Carpinus Betulus. Same adaptabilities as the last. 



Ch&nomeles japonica (Japonica; Japan quince). 

 Deciduous; somewhat spiny. Grows North and South 

 and even hi comparatively dry regions. Boy- and dog- 

 proof, with handsome flowers. Somewhat subject to 

 San Jose scale. Excellent. 



Cinnamomum Camphora (camphor tree). Broad- 

 leaved evergreen for high or low hedges. Hardy only 

 near the coast from Charleston, South Carolina to 

 Texas. 



Cratsegus Crus-galli (cockspur thorn). Deciduous. 

 Has long spines. Can be used all over the country, 

 except in the arid regions, but it is best adapted to the 

 North. Flowers and fruits both attractive. Needs 

 careful pruning when young to keep sides clothed to 

 the ground. 



Cratxgus Oxyacantha. Similar to above. Not quite 

 so dense a grower, but rather more showy flowers and 

 fruits. 



Deutzias. Deciduous, flowering shrubs of various 

 heights from 30 inches to 6 feet, making rather loose 



