HOSTA 



HOTBEDS 



1605 



(as HemerocalliS cxrulea.) Mn. 1, p. 73. The common- 

 est blue-fld. species. Funkia marginata, Sieb., is a 

 form with white-bordered Ivs. There is also a yellow- 

 variegated form. 



lancifolia, Tratt. (Funkia lancifolia, Spreng. F. 

 japonica, Hort., of some). Lvs. lanceolate to narrowly 

 ovate-lanceolate, the blade 6 in. or less long and 2 in. 

 or less wide: raceme lax, 6-10-fld., on a tall, slender st.; 

 fls. 1 1/2 m - or less long, the tube slender and gradually 

 enlarging upward, pale lilac. Var. albo-marginata, 

 Hort. (Funkia albo-marginata, Hook., B.M. 3657), 



1910. Hosta caerulea. 



has the Ivs. edged white. Var. tardifldra (Funkia 

 tardifldra, Hort.), blooms in late autumn: Ivs. firmer and 

 shorter petioled. Gn. 64, p. 297. Var. undulata 

 (Funkia undulata, Otto & Dietr. F. lancifolia var. 

 undulata, Bailey) is a form with undulate white-mar- 

 gined Ivs. There is a form with 1-striped Ivs., var. 

 univittata, Hort. Graceful. Fls. smaller than those of 

 H. caerulea. H. longipes (Funkia Idngipes, Franch. & 

 Sav.) is closely allied, but has broader If .-blades decur- 

 rent on the petiole. 



H. Adki, with "large glaucous-green Ivs." is advertised. It has 

 been offered in this country from European sources, and is said to 

 be apparently identical with Hosta Sieboldiana, except in time of 

 blooming. H. aurea, Hort., variegated forms of various species. 

 H. eldta, Hort., "bears tall scapes of pale blue fls." H. gigantda, 

 Hort., has "long spikes of blue fls." H. variegAta, Hort.=yariega- 

 ted forms of various species, usually of H. caerulea or H. lancifolia. 

 H. viridis-marginata, Hort., is probably a form of H. cserulea. 



L. H. B. 



HOTBEDS. Low glass structures in which plants 

 are started or grown, usually heated by fermenting 

 vegetable substances, such as stable-manure, although 

 fire heat is occasionally applied, steam, hot water and 

 flues being used. Their usual place is some spot sloping 

 to the south, where they are protected by buildings, 

 evergreen screens or board fences, from the north and 

 west winds (Fig. 1911). The frames are made either of 

 plank or boards and may be portable, or built in place, 

 the former being taken down and packed away except 

 when needed. A tight board fence 6 feet high, as a 

 windbreak, is desirable, as it will also serve as a sup- 

 port for the" shutters, mats and sash when they are 

 removed from the bed, and it will answer best for this 

 purpose if it inclines a foot or so to the north. 



When movable frames (Fig. 1912) are used, they are 

 generally constructed of 2-inch plank, the side pieces 

 being from 9 to 12 feet and the ends 6 feet in length, to 

 receive either three or four ordinary sash, which are 

 3 by 6 feet. The north side of the frame is made 15 

 inches wide, while the south side is but 9 or 10 inches, 



thus giving a slope to the south, which will permit the 

 water to run off and favor the passage of the sun's rays 

 through the glass. The end pieces are 6 feet in length, and 

 in width taper from 15 inches at one end to 9 or 10 at the 

 other, so as to fit the side boards. The plank for por- 

 table hotbed frames may be held in place by means of 

 stakes, or iron rods or bolts may be fastened to the 

 ends of the side pieces so that they can pass through the 

 holes in the ends of the frame, which can then be 

 secured by keys or nuts. As supports for the sash and to 

 hold the sides of the frame in place, cross-strips of 

 board 3 inches wide are sunk into the upper edge every 

 3 feet, and another strip with a width equal to the thick- 

 ness of the sash is fastened on edge to the center of 

 its side. Frames of this size require a slightly deeper 

 mass of heating material than would be necessary for 

 larger frames, and when they are to be used during the 

 winter, it is well to excavate to the depth of 2J^ feet 

 and for a space 2 feet longer and wider than the frame, 

 and after the hole has been filled with heating material, 

 the material should be well tramped down. The frame 

 is then put in place and manure is banked about it. 



For permanent frames, rough 1-inch boards may be 

 used, although 2-inch plank will be found far more 

 durable. Stout stakes should be driven into the ground 

 about 4 feet apart, where the north line of the bed is to 

 be located. These should project above the surface 

 from 12 to 15 inches, and should be boarded up from a 

 point just below the level of the ground, so that the 

 stakes will be on the north side of the frame. A second 

 row of stakes should then be driven at a distance from 

 the first row equal to the length of the sash, which is 

 usually 6 feet, although other lengths are sometimes 

 used. The south wall of the frame should then be 

 boarded up so that it will be 5 or 6 inches lower than 

 the north wall, after which the end should be closed 

 and cross-pieces should be fitted, the same as for the 

 portable sash. To prevent frost from working into the 

 frame, soil should be taken from the inside and banked 

 against the boards outside, so that it will reach two- 

 thirds of the way to the top of the frame, and when the 

 bed is ready for use, 3 or 4 inches of horse-manure 

 should be spread over this. The frame should be 

 placed about 3 feet from the fence, and if other rows 

 are needed, there should be alleys about 7 feet wide 

 between them. 



Instead of boards or planks, concrete may be used 

 for the walls of permanent frames. Forms should be 

 set so that the lower part of the wall will be 4 inches 

 thick but it may be only 2J^> or 3 inches on the top. 

 The excavation for the wall should extend about 1 foot 

 below the surface and to prevent the settling of the 

 concrete walls, when the excavation for the bed itself 



1911. Hotbed sheltered by a hedge. The straw mats 

 have been rolled off 



