1866 



LILIUM 



LILIUM 



they are shifted into 6- or 7-inch flowering pots. Other 

 growers place the bulbs directly in 6-inch pots, filling 

 them about one-half full of compost, and at a later 

 date when active growth has begun, a rich top-dress- 

 ing of equal parts loam and cow-manure is added. 



When the lilies are first potted, they are placed in a 

 coldframe, watered thoroughly and covered with 

 sphagnum moss, straw, or cinders. Wooden shutters 

 are placed over the frames to keep the bulbs dark and 

 to protect them from rain and heavy freezing. Under 

 such conditions the bulbs will root readily. Before 

 hard frosts, they are removed to a greenhouse and 

 given a temperature of 45 to 50 F. at night for a week 

 or ten days. When top-growth commences, a steady 

 night temperature of 60 F. is maintained, raising the 

 temperature to 70 during the day. Lilies should be 

 given abundant ventilation and the plants should be 

 freely syringed on bright mornings, but the foliage 

 should be dry during the night. 



It will require approximately thirteen weeks from 

 the time that the plants are brought into the house 

 to get them into flower, provided a temperature of 60 

 F. is maintained. It should be remembered, however, 

 that weather conditions are dominant factors in lily- 

 forcing; therefore, allowance must be made for a longer 

 period for forcing if the weather is exceptionally dark 

 or cloudy. Sometimes a slightly increased temperature 

 shortens the period of forcing, and such an increase is 

 not detrimental to the value of the flowers. If the buds 

 are forced into flower at too high temperature, how- 

 ever, the keeping qualities of the flowers may be con- 

 siderably injured. In order to have lilies in their prime 

 for Easter, the buds should show about six weeks pre- 

 vious to that date. They may then be gradually 

 developed, and if they advance too rapidly, they may 

 be placed in a cooler temperature. No group of lilies 

 will develop evenly, and it often requires excellent 

 judgment so to shift the plants into different tempera- 

 tures that the blooms will open at the proper date. 

 If lilies are too advanced, retarding should not begin 

 until the buds have lost their green color, for when 

 once retarded, it is difficult to start them into growth 

 again. A temperature of 45 to 50 F. at night, with a 

 light shading on the glass, is recommended for develop- 

 ing the flower-buds. 



For best success in forcing lilies, the water used for 

 both watering and syringing should be warmed to 

 about 70 F. Soil moisture extremes, caused by over- 

 watering or by neglect, should be avoided. 



When the lilies begin to show the buds, a weekly 

 application of liquid manure may be given, using one 

 bushel of cow-manure to fifty gallons of water. If the 

 growth is very slow, three pounds of sodium nitrate 

 may be added to the liquid manure, or it may be used 

 separately in liquid form, using one ounce to one gallon 

 of water. 



If the plants are tall, they should be tied erect to 

 neat stakes. Under forced conditions, the lily seems 

 particularly susceptible to attacks of green aphis: 

 therefore, fumigations and spraying with nicotine should 

 be practised regularly throughout the period of growth. 

 If young plants are kept free from aphis, they will be 

 less likely to gain a foothold on the buds. They are 

 particularly injurious to developing buds, for their 

 attacks result in a malformation of the tissue. 



Cold-storage lilies. 



^ These are used for planting only from March 1 to 

 September 1, the regular stock being depended on for 

 the remainder of the year. The culture of cold-storage 

 lilies differs from that pursued in the growing of lilies 

 for Easter, as they may be placed in the forcing-house 

 with a temperature of 60 F. immediately after pot- 

 ting. During the warm months, they will bloom in ten 

 weeks from the time started. Those started earlier will 

 require from ten to thirteen weeks. 



Lilium speciosum and its varieties are easily grown. 

 The method of culture does not vary much from that 

 of L. longiflorum. They are grown either singly in 6- 

 inch pots or planted in boxes. These boxes are 6 

 inches deep, and the bulbs are placed about 6 inches 

 apart. The box method of culture is recommended 

 because the roots of the lilies are not so liable to dry 

 out as when pots are used. 



Lilium candidum differs from L. longiflorum and L. 

 speciosum in its temperature requirements. Too high 

 temperature is disastrous to it, and a temperature of 

 50 or 55 F. suits it best. This species is seldom forced 

 except for Easter and Memorial Day trade. 



Notes on lily culture. 



Allow thirteen weeks from the time the lilies are 

 brought into the greenhouses, to get them into flower. 

 A temperature of 60 F. at night, and 70 F. during 

 the day, will be required. 



It will take six weeks from the time the buds show, 

 to the flowering period. 



The best cold-storage temperature for lily bulbs is 

 34 F. 



One of the most satisfactory lilies for Christmas is 

 Lilium longiflorum var. giganteum. The bulbs should 

 be potted September 15. L. longiflorum var. giganteum 

 to be in flower for Easter should be potted in November. 



By weekly plantings and proper culture, it is possible 

 to have lilies in bloom throughout the year. 



Early shipments of lilies arrive in time to follow the 

 last of the cold-storage bulbs. 



INDEX. 



