2084 



MUSHROOM 



MUSHROOM 



spawn was dead. Other causes may determine a poor 

 crop, but seldom no crop. In spite of the fact that 

 reliable spawn is now made, some small dealers will, of 

 course, continue to offer for sale old spawn which has 

 lost all vitality just as they may offer old seeds. It is 

 necessary to be even more careful in the purchase of 



2410. Mushrooms growing in a cellar. 



spawn than of field or garden seeds. Experiments have 

 shown that spawn stored under the conditions which 

 usually prevail in the cellars or basements of seed- 

 stores is seldom alive for more than one year after it 

 is made. 



Temperature. 



The most favorable temperature for mushroom-pro- 

 duction is about 54 F. Perhaps there is no appreciable 

 difference between 52 and 56 F. More important as 

 principles are the limits of temperature, and the effects 

 of more or less heat than that mentioned. No one 

 should attempt to grow mushrooms in any house or 

 cellar where the temperature is constantly above 60 F. 

 In the warmer atmosphere, all kinds of insects and other 

 mushroom enemies will be active; in fact, insects that 

 are practically torpid at 50 may be extremely harmful 

 and multiply rapidly at 60 F. Apparently at 60 F. 

 the spawn in the beds will be affected more or less by 

 the growth of other organisms, the requisite humidity 

 is not so readily maintained, and "fogging off" is 

 frequent. Moreover, even if the higher temperature 

 lasts only a few days at a time, the quality of the prod- 

 uct will be affected. In hot weather the mushrooms 

 are smaller, long-stemmed, and quickly expanded. At a 

 temperature continuously 45 F., mushrooms will 

 develop so slowly as to be unprofitable. A few days of 

 low temperature is not in any sense injurious, for it 

 merely causes delay in production. If one wishes to 

 obtain particularly heavy mushrooms, this can be best 

 accomplished by keeping the temperature fairly low, 

 and occasionally permitting it to fall below 50 F. for 

 a few successive days. Even light freezing does not 

 kill the mycelium in the beds. 



Moisture. 



It has been noted that after the first watering 

 when the stable-manure is being prepared for com- 

 post, the rule is "moist but not soaking wet." No 

 better rule can be given. It is scientifically more 

 accurate to say that the compost in the beds should 

 contain about 60 to 65 per cent of its oven-dry weight 

 of water, but the best practical test of 60 to 65 per 

 cent is that when compressed firmly in the hand it 

 will moisten the hand but drops of water will not be 

 squeezed out with ordinary exertion. When the beds 

 are cased, the surface soil must also be kept moist. 

 Even if the compost below is moist, no satisfactory 

 mushrooms will be produced in a dry soil. On the 

 other hand, to keep the soil wet it is not necessary 

 to drench the bed. The latter serves to make the 

 compost too wet, and the soil may soon be dry 

 again. In the ideal mushroom house, watering 



should be required to the extent of no more than one 

 light sprinkling each day; but in small cellars or houses 

 where the heating is by means of stoves, or other similar 

 dry heat method, more frequent sprinkling will be 

 required. The humidity of the atmosphere should be 

 from 60 to 75 per cent. There should be a gradual but 

 slow evaporation. Walls and ceiling may be conve- 

 niently sprayed, when necessary, with a Vermorel 

 spray nozzle. 



Sanitation. 



Sanitation involves (1) good drainage and ven- 

 tilation, (2) removal of all waste mushrooms, also the 

 clotted and spent mycelium at the bases of mush- 

 room clusters, and especially fogged specimens, and 

 (3) the trapping of insects, whenever they become 

 evident, as well as the regulation of conditions, if 

 possible, so as to prevent then- activity. Drainage 

 is a minor matter if the application of too much 

 water is assiduously avoided. Ventilation is partic- 

 ularly necessary in caves and low cellars. Waste 

 mushroom material, whether on the bed or about the 

 cellar, is a constant menace. When mushrooms are 

 picked in clusters, the little buttons in the vicinity 

 which are injured should be removed. All old bases of 

 clusters should be lifted and a handful of fresh earth 

 applied. 



Where mushrooms may be grown (Figs. 2410, 2411). 



Since the control of conditions is the essential point 

 in the culture of these fungi, it is obvious that mush- 

 rooms may be grown in any house, cellar, or cave 

 which will permit the regulation of moisture and 

 temperature, and incidentally of ventilation. It is not 

 the purpose of this article to attempt the discussion of 

 the various types of construction which may be 

 employed in the erection of suitable houses for mush- 

 room work. Any kind of building material may be 

 used, but since a considerable amount of water is 

 necessarily employed, it is well to provide against 

 "sweating," and the drip which accompanies this. As 

 a rule, an air-space in walls is an effective preventive 

 of this condition. The ceiling of the mushroom house 

 may be high or low, depending upon the number of tiers 

 of beds to be used. When it is desired to place the beds 

 on the floor only, the ceiling should be as low as will 

 permit men to work comfortably; for the additional 

 air-space above the bed will be disadvantageous with 

 regard to the control of both heat and moisture. Per- 

 sons who are making a first trial with mushroom-grow- 

 ing, or those who intend to use a small amount of 

 space for the production of a small quantity intended 

 merely for home consumption, will preferably choose for 

 the purpose any cellar, shed, or other space which may 

 be available. Such space may be adapted more or less 



2411. Mushroom-growing in a Portland cement cave. 



