2394 



ORCHIDS 



ORCHIDS 



2660. Commonest and best 

 style of basket for general cul- 

 ture of orchids with pendulous 

 scapes. 



species and a few of the epiphytal kinds, which grow on 

 rocks in marshes, and among quantities of humus and 

 fern roots. Most of the epiphytal species, however, 

 need special structures that will admit air to circu- 

 late freely to the roots; otherwise, these are liable to 



decay through excess of 

 water if confined in close 

 pots when inactive in win- 

 ter, which must eventu- 

 ally weaken the constitu- 

 tion of the plants. 



The best and most 

 practicable pots and bas- 

 kets are shown in Figs. 

 2660 to 2661. Fig. 2660 

 shows the orchid basket 

 most commonly used; it 

 is the best adapted for 

 the general culture of cat- 

 tleyas, coryanthes, den- 

 drobiums, epidendrums, 

 Iselias, masdevallias of the 

 chimsera section, oncidi- 

 ums, and most orchids 

 with pendulous flower- 

 scapes. They may be made of cedar, teak-wood, 

 cypress, or any durable wood. The wood is cut into 

 square (or round) sticks of any length desirable and 

 in proportionate thickness from % to 1 inch, and 

 carefully perforated at each end. Through the holes 

 is inserted a strong wire, which is looped at the 

 upper end when finished in order to receive the wire 

 hanger. These baskets may be as deep as desired, 

 but three sticks on each of the four sides are usually 

 enough for most orchids, with two or three placed 

 crosswise through the bottom, to hold the compost. 

 The hanger is made by twisting together and bending 

 down in the middle two pieces of galvanized or copper 

 wire, thereby forming four ends to insert in the basket- 

 loops and a loop or hook at the top by which to 

 suspend it. 



The orchid cylinder (Fig. 2661) is very useful for 

 standing on the bench or pit, and is used for renantheras, 

 aerides, vandas, angrsecums, epidendrums, and many 

 other tall plants that are too tall or difficult to suspend. 

 Cylinders are made hi all sizes and any diameter 

 desired, with either square or round sticks. They are 

 bored a short distance from the ends and a wire inserted 

 through them, with a small block between each stick, 

 to make an opening for air. When large enough the 

 sides are brought together and fastened. The depth is 

 adjusted by movable cross-pieces. 



The orchid raft (Fig. 2662) is made 

 in much the same way as the cylinder, 

 but is left flat with the openings be- 

 tween closer together. Oblong-square 

 blocks of hard, rough wood, an inch or 

 less thick, answer much the same pur- 

 pose. The orchid raft or block is very 

 useful for many species, such as Cattleya 

 titrina, barkerias, Epidendrum falca- 

 tum, Dendrobium Jenkinsii, Oncidium 

 Limminghii and 0. Papilio, scuticarias 

 and the like. 



The earthen basket (Fig. 2663) is useful when the 

 compost is fine and when the roots do not require much 

 atmospheric action; also properly to mature tissue in a 

 few terrestrial species, thereby inducing them to flower 

 more freely. The earthen basket is especially useful 

 for acinetas, peristerias with pendulous scapes, stan- 

 hopeas and others; it is made with ovate openings 

 around the sides and a round one in the center to admit 

 pendulous scapes. 



The perforated pan (Fig. 2664) is usually made only 

 in small sizes and used for bulbophyllums, the concolor 

 type of cypripedium, dendrobiums, and many other 



2661. An orchid 

 cylinder, used for 

 very tall species. 



2662. An orchid 

 raft, used for much 

 the same purpose 

 as the cylinder. 



small-growing species that do well suspended from 

 the roof. 



The perforated orchid pot (Fig. 2665) is for bench 

 use and is useful for many epiphytal orchids that are 

 not to be suspended, the perforations or holes supply- 

 ing abundant air to the roots, a ^ 

 safeguard against losing them through 

 overwatering in winter. 



Figs. 2666 and 2667 show the 

 standard earthen pot and pan for 

 terrestrial species. They should have 

 the drainage holes made on the side 

 at the base, instead of directly under- 

 neath, as a preventive against earth- 

 worms entering from the benches. 



Potting of terrestrial orchids. 



Terrestrial orchids as a rule grow 

 best under pot culture. Potting 

 material for the following genera 

 acanthephippium, bletia, calanthe, 

 cymbidium, Cypripedium insigne and 

 most of the hardy species, cyrtopo- 

 dium, habenaria, liparis, microstylis, 

 peristeria, phaius, pleione, sobralia, 

 thunia, and some others should con- 

 sist of about one-third each of chopped sod with some 

 of the fine soil removed, chopped live sphagnum and 

 leaf-mold, adding a little ground bone for some of the 

 strong-growing kinds. One-third of the pot space 

 should be devoted to clean drainage, covered with 

 sphagnum or rough material to keep it open. After 

 removing all decayed parts, the roots should be care- 

 fully distributed and the compost worked in gently but 

 firmly around them, leaving the surface a little convex 

 and slightly below the rim of the pot as in Fig. 2666 (the 

 dotted lines denote drainage required). The convex 

 surface gives the rhizome an opportunity to dry out 

 frequently, thus avoiding fungi, which are troublesome 

 to some species. 



In repotting terrestrial orchids, sufficient pot room 

 should be given to last a year or two if possible, as they 

 dislike to have their roots disturbed oftener than is 

 necessary. The best time to repot is just before the 

 rooting period, or when they are starting their new 

 growths in spring. The deciduous species of calanthe 

 can be easily increased at this time, if desired, by 

 removing the old bulbs and placing a number together 

 in a pan or shallow box, covering them partly with com- 

 post and placing them in a warm house until they start 

 action, after which tune they should be 

 potted as desired, two or three together. 



Anoectochilus, arpophyllums, cypripe- 

 diums, disas, goodyeras, spathoglottis, 

 and many allied genera, grow best under 

 pot culture, but otherwise require com- 

 post and treatment similar to the epiphy- 

 tal kinds. 



Potting, basketing, and compost for epiphy- 

 tal orchids. 



The roots of epiphytal orchids are 

 usually very porous, and many are cov- 

 ered with a corky substance (velamen), 

 capable of absorbing and retaining water 

 for considerable time. In their native 

 homes a great many of the roots are 

 aerial or grow in loose, fibrous material, 

 such as moss and the fine roots of poly- 

 podiums and other ferns, where they 

 have free access of air at all times. It is important that 

 they receive similar treatment under cultivation so far 

 as is consistent with the difference of their environ- 

 ment taken into consideration. Thus it is apparent 

 that one of the special features in the culture of 

 epiphytal orchids lies in the proper selection of com- 



2663. Earthen 

 basket, for 

 stanho peas 

 and other or- 

 chids, whose 

 pendulous 

 scapes issue 

 through the 

 holes in the 

 bottom. 



