PLANTING 



PLANTING 



2685 



Where permanent windbreaks, such as plantations of 

 evergreens, buildings or solid fences, do not exist, tem- 

 porary ones should be made of boards, evergreen 

 boughs, corn-stalks, and the like, to protect arboreal 

 plants that are not quite hardy, e. g., in this climate 

 Halesia Carolina, and in the eastern states Magnolia 

 grandi flora, hollies, and the like. Place the windbreak 

 at the sides toward the prevailing winds, generally 



3035. Protecting plants by covering with a bo- inside 

 which are placed leaves or straw. 



north and west, and at the sunny side of any evergreen 

 that browns. The boughs or stalks may be attached to 

 wire netting or to cords fastened to stakes. 



The so-called retinisporas may have placed over 

 them an empty box open at the top. Shrubs that are 

 still more tender should be boxed, the box having a 

 tight top and ventilation at the sides. In all cases 

 mulch well at the roots. Magnolia Sovlangeana, M. 

 speciasa, and plants of similar degrees of hardiness 

 may have their branches tied in and empty casks placed 

 over them, one sitting partially inside the other, 

 and held in place by stakes. Put a cone-shaped 

 covering over the top to shed the snow. Or 

 poles may be set close to the tree, wigwam 

 fashion. Wrap these with burlaps, or wind 

 string around them for the straw to lean 

 against, and in both instances wrap with 

 straw. 



The so-called hardy climbing roses, such as 

 the Seven Sisters and Prairie Queen, which are 

 hardy without protection, but are benefited by 

 it. Wichuraiana and its hybrids, Paul Carmine 

 Pillar, Russell Cottage, Crimson Rambler, 

 Thalia, and Lord Penzance Sweetbrier hybrids, 

 if against a wall, may have clematis or other 

 vines placed thickly over them; or if in an 

 open exposed situation, they may be wrapped 

 in straw. (Fig. 3033.) Better still, hill up the 

 soil rather high at the roots, to prevent break- 

 ing and to afford protection and drainage, 

 and then take the trouble to extend the 

 mound in the form of a gradually diminishing 

 ridge. Bend the canes along the ridge, choosing 

 a time when there is no frost in them; then 

 cover the canes with tar paper, over which 

 place soil, strawy manure, or any warm cover- 

 ing. If the presence of a lawn prevents this method, 

 lay on th<? grass and cover with a water-tight box filled 

 with leaves. Canes will rot di- 

 rectly under an open knothole. 

 In the spring allow them to 

 remain prostrate some time 

 after uncovering to inure them 

 gradually to the change and 

 to induce the lower buds to 

 strengthen. Hybrid Perpet- 

 uals. the tender forms of Moss 

 roses, Hermosa, Clothilde Sou- 

 pert, and the Dwarf Polyan- 

 thas, may be wrapped, boxed, 

 3036. Plants protected or bent over and covered with 

 in a barrel covered with soil- Those in beds may be 

 burlaps. bent over, the tops tied to the 



base of their neighbors, lead tags bearing numbers 

 fastened to each plant, and a record taken of their 

 names, and all summer labels stored to prevent loss 

 when removing the leaves in the spring. Make a solid 

 frame around them, higher at one end, and fill with 

 leaves so as to cover the plants. Lap the roof-boards; 

 they will shed water and allow ventilation. In the spring 

 remove the leaves, replace the top for a few days, but 

 let the sides remain for a week or so to shield from cold 

 winds. Keep the plants prostrate until cut back. 



The tender Hybrid Teas require special attention. 

 Cultivation and watering should be discontinued in Sep- 

 tember in order to retard a late growth, but if the fall 

 is a dry one, they should receive a thorough soaking late 

 in October. Early in November hill up the soil around 

 the plants to a height of 6 to 8 inches. After there is a 

 crust of frozen soil a few inches thick, fill up with dry 

 leaves to a little over the height of the hills or higher. 

 Then board up the bed some 2J^ feet high at one side 

 and 2 feet at the other, and cover top with boards or tar 

 paper, the object being to keep the leaves dry. Hybrid 

 Perpetuals, or in fact any semi-hardy rose of low growth, 

 may be protected as above. In most winters the 

 Hybrid Teas can be safely carried over by hilling up the 

 soil as described and covering with hardwood leaves 18 

 to 24 inches deep, held down by evergreen boughs, 

 brush, or corn-stalks. 



Field-mice or the smaller moles are troublesome 

 sometimes where any open or loose material like leaves 

 or straw is used for winter protection. Plants in cold- 

 frames are often destroyed. This may be prevented by 

 the following method: Procure some poisoned wheat 

 and place in the interior of a 4- or 5-inch common 



3037. 



Deep pit built like a coldframe, for carrying half-hardy woody 

 plants over winter. 



drain-tile. Place these tiles in the frames or among the 

 roses, using ten grains of wheat to a tile. When spring 

 comes lift up the tile carefully, so as not to spill the 

 wheat and count the grams; by the use of the tiles one 

 keeps track of the wheat and does not endanger the 

 birds. 



Tree peonies and yuccas should have an empty box 

 placed over them, large enough to prevent the plant 

 from touching the wood. Hibiscus syriacus, diervillas, 

 deutzias except D. Lemoinei and D. parviflora which 

 are hardy Itea virginica, Cornus mas, and the like, are 

 wrapped in straw, and when the wrappings exceed 4 

 feet hi height they should be staked to prevent high 

 winds from toppling them over. Rhododendrons when 

 planted out are taken up, the roots given a good soaking 

 in a tub, and replanted hi cold pits, or hi boxes placed 

 hi a coldhouse or pits. In the spring, another bath is 



